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culinary shortcuts. The market-driven menu changes daily, but specialities include scal-
lops and simple roast chicken with pan gravy. The narrow stone-walled dining room is a
mishmash of textures - contemporary resin chairs to antique crystal goblets - befitting the
chef's eclecticism. Reserve ahead.
L'Atelier de Damien €€
( 04 90 82 57 35; 54 rue Guillaume Puy; lunch/dinner menus €13.50/26; lunch
Mon-Sat, dinner Wed-Sat)
Unframed paintings and worn tile floors lend a rough-around-
the-edges look to this off-the-tourist-radar restaurant on Avignon's less-glamorous side.
Chef Damien Demazure once cooked under Alain Ducasse, and draws inspiration from
market-fresh ingredients, combining French with Asian - ginger, lemongrass and corian-
der are his favorites. Expect excellent fish, foie gras and caramel-candy cake. Reserve.
MODERN FRENCH
Fou de Fafa €€
( 04 32 76 35 13; 17 rue des Trois Faucons; menus €22-26; dinner Wed-Sun; )
The classic French bistro, Fou de Fafa's strength lies in simplicity - fresh ingredients,
bright flavours, and convivial surroundings. Expect a warm welcome (in English!) and
fresh spins on classic dishes. Reserve.
BISTRO
FRENCH
L'Epice and Love €
( 04 90 82 45 96; 30 rue des Lices; mains €11-12; dinner Mon-Sat)
Tables are
cheek by jowl at this tiny bohemian restaurant - our favorite for budget dining - with
nothing fancy, just straightforward bistro fare, stews, roasts and other reliably good,
home-style French dishes. Cash only.
Christian Etienne €€€
PROVENÇAL
( 04 90 86 16 50;
www.christian-etienne.fr
; 10 rue de Mons; lunch menus €31-150,
dinner menus €75-150; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat)
One of Avignon's top tables, this
much-vaunted restaurant occupies a 12th-century palace with a leafy outdoor terrace, ad-
jacent to Palais des Papes. Interiors feel slightly dated, but the refined Provençal cuisine
