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are open to non-guests. Offerings include horses and bikes to ride, jeep safaris (€60) and
Roma music dinners in summer. Reservations essential.
FARM PENSION
Hôtel de Cacharel €€
( 04 90 97 95 44; www.hotel-cacharel.com ; rte de Cacharel, D85A; s/d/tr/q from €120/
131/142/165; year-round; ) This isolated farmstead balances modern-day
comforts with rural authenticity perfectly. Photographic portraits of the bull herder who
created the hotel in 1947 give the vintage dining room soul. Priciest rooms look out over
the sunrise on the water. The pension's owner is friendly, there are fans for summer and
there's wi-fi in reception. It's just north of Stes-Maries de la Mer.
Eating
La Chassagnette €€
GASTRONOMIC
( 04 90 97 26 96; www.chassagnette.fr ; rte du Sambuc; mains €35;
lunch & dinner Thu-Mon Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, daily Jul & Aug, Thu-Sun Nov-Mar) Inhal-
ing the scent of sun-ripened tomatoes is one of many pleasures at this 19th-century sheep-
fold - the ultimate Camargue dine. Alain Ducasse-prodigy Armand Arnal cooks up a con-
stantly changing 100% organic menu, grows much of it himself and woos guests with a
mosquito-protected outside terrace. Look for the fork and trowel sign, 12km southeast of
Arles on the southbound D36.
Le Mazet du Vaccarès €€
CAMARGUAIS SEAFOOD
(Chez Hélène et Néné; 04 90 97 10 79;
www.mazetduvaccares.camargue.fr ; south of Méjanes; 3-course menu €35; lunch Fri-
Sun, dinner Fri & Sat, closed mid-Aug-mid-Sep & mid-Dec-mid-Jan) Gorging on fish in
this legendary lakeside cabin is a feast for the eyes and belly. Memorabilia from Hélène
and Néné's days as lighthouse keepers in Beauduc fill the restaurant with soul. The jovial
couple cook up one fixed menu built from the catch of local fishermen. From Domaine
Paul Ricard, it is a signposted 2.5km drive south along pot-holed gravel.
Restaurant La Telline €€
CAMARGUAIS
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