Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
AROUND MARSEILLE
Butting up against Marseille's built-up environs are spectacular stretches of coast hiding
crystalline coves, charming towns and celebrated vineyards.
MASSIF DE LA STE-BAUME
From Marseille head towards Gémenos, then take eastbound D2 towards 'Vallée St-Pons & La Ste-Baume'. The go-
ing gets verdantly dramatic, the road snaking uphill through the scrubby terrain of the Parc Départemental de St-Pons.
After 8km, the sea pops on the horizon, then the road climbs to Col de l'Espigoulier (728m), a mountain pass with
coastline views. The winding descent is dominated by the Massif de la Ste-Baume.
At the D45a/D2 junction, continue on the D2 to La Ste-Baume (8km), from where a 40-minute forest trail leads to
the Grotte de Ste-Madeleine (950m), a mountain cave where Mary Magdalene is said to have spent the last years of
her life. Its entrance offers a breathtaking panorama of Montagne Ste-Victoire, Mont Ventoux and the Alps.
Finally, take the D80 northeast via Nans-les-Pins then turn right on the N560 (about 20km all up) to reach the
pastel-hued town of St-Maximin La Ste-Baume. Its fabulous Gothic Ste-Madeleine Basilica was built in 1295 as the
home of what are claimed to be the relics of Mary Magdalene, discovered in a crypt on the site around 1279. After-
wards lunch in the adjacent convent, now the sumptuous
Hôtel Le Couvent Royal
(
04 94 86 55 66;
www.hotelfp-saintmaximin.com
; menu €32)
.
Les Calanques
Marseille abuts the wild and spectacular Calanques, a 20km stretch of high, rocky promon-
tories, rising from brilliant turquoise Mediterranean waters. The sheer cliffs are occasion-
ally interrupted by small idyllic beaches, some impossible to reach without a kayak. The
Marseillais cherish the Calanques, and come to soak up sun or take a long hike. The
promontories have been protected since 1975 and shelter an extraordinary wealth of flora
and fauna: 900 plant species, Bonelli's eagle, Europe's largest lizard (60cm Eyed Lizard)
and longest snake (2m Montpellier snake).
From October to June the best way to see the Calanques (including the 500 sq km of the
rugged inland Massif des Calanques) is to hike the many maquis-lined trails. During sum-
