Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(
04 91 33 09 75;
www.sylvaindepuichaffray.fr
;
66 rue Grignan; quiche €3, salads €6;
7am-4pm Mon, 7am-7pm Tue-Sat;
Vieux Port)
Perfect for a light lunch of quiche
or salad followed by a sweet treat.
BAKERY
7am-8pm;
Vieux Port)
Some of the best pastries near the
Vieux Port; also has savoury foods.
BAKERY
6.30am-8pm Mon-Sat;
Vieux Port)
Lines form out the door and onto the red-chaired terrace in front.
BOUILLABAISSE
Originally cooked by fishermen from the scraps of their catch,
bouillabaisse
is Marseille's signature dish. True
bouillabaisse
includes at least four different kinds of fish, and sometimes shellfish, which is why it's served to a
minimum of two people. Don't trust tourist-traps that promise cheap
bouillabaisse
; the real McCoy costs about
€55 per person and should be reserved 48 hours ahead, enough time to procure the correct ingredients. It's served
in two parts: the broth (
soupe de poisson
), rich with tomato, saffron and fennel; and the cooked fish, deboned
tableside and presented on a platter. On the side are croutons and
rouille
(a bread-thickened garlic-chilli pepper
mayonnaise) and grated cheese, usually gruyère. Spread
rouille
on the crouton, top with cheese, and float it in the
soup. Be prepared for a huge meal and tons of garlic.
The most reliable spots for real
bouillabaisse
:
»
L'Epuisette
Offline map
Google map
04 91 52 17 82;
www.l-epuisette.com
; Vallon des Auffes; €60;
Tue-Sat; 83)
The swankest (by far) has a Michelin star and knockout water-level views from an elegantly
austere dining room.
»
Le Rhul
( 04 91 52 01 77;
www.lerhul.fr
; 269 corniche Président John F Kennedy; €50; 83)
This long-
standing classic has atmosphere (however kitschy): a 1940s seaside hotel with Mediterranean views.
»
Restaurant Michel
Offline map
Google map
(Chez Michel;
04 91 52 30 63;
http://restaurant-
michel-13.fr
; 6 rue des Catalans; €60;
dinner nightly)
Tops since 1946. Alas, the overly bright dining room
lacks romance.
