Travel Reference
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( 04 91 48 10 48; 24 cours Julien; mains €9-19; Tue-Sat; Notre Dame du
Mont-Cours Julien) The top table at cours Julien serves perfectly al dente housemade
pasta, paper-thin prosciutto, marinated vegetables, bresaola (air-dried beef) and risotto.
Tables in the convivial dining room are cheek by jowl, and everyone seems to know each
other. Or escape to the sun-dappled, tiled patio garden. If you're lucky, the gregarious
chef-owner, Pierre-Antoine Denis, will regale you with the day's specials. Reservations
essential.
NEO-BISTRO
Café Populaire €
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( 04 91 02 53 96; 10 rue Paradis; mains €14-16; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat;
Estrangin- Préfecture) Vintage tables and chairs, old books on the shelf and a fine collec-
tion of glass soda bottles all add to the retro air of this 1950s-styled jazz comptoir
(counter). Plump for a stool at the zinc bar or lounge at a table with a view of the fabulous
open kitchen, where simple daily specials like gambas à la plancha (fried prawns served
on a hot plate) or beetroot and coriander salad are cooked up for a chic crowd.
BISTRO
La Part des Anges €
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(33 rue Sainte; mains €15; lunch Mon-Sat, dinner daily) No address buzzes with Mar-
seille's hip, buoyant crowd more than this fabulous all-rounder wine bistro, named after
the amount of alcohol that evaporates through a barrel during wine or whisky fermenta-
tion: the angels' share (la part des anges) . Tables can't be reserved: tell the bartenders you
want to eat and take your pick of dozens of wines to try by the glass.
Le Comptoir Dugommier €
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( 04 91 62 21 21; www.comptoirdugommier.fr ; 14 bd Dugommier; mains €11-12,
3-course menu with drink €20; 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Wed, 7.30am-1am Thu & Fri;
Noailles, Canebière Garibaldi) Tin molding, wooden floors and vintage signs make a
homey escape from the busy street outside. The place gets packed for its downhome
French fare, like andouillette sausage stewed with artichokes.
BISTRO
Les Pieds dans le Plat €€
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MODERN FRENCH
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