Travel Reference
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stands proud at the back of the room, and the equally small menu is chalked on the board.
No credit cards.
MODERN FRENCH
Sapore €€
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( 04 92 04 22 09; www.restaurant-sapore.com ; 19 rue Bonaparte; menu €32; din-
ner Tue-Sat) Inquisitive gourmets will love this place: the menu is a fixed eight-course
meal of bite-size dishes, each a riot of taste inspired by the chef's culinary travels and the
season's products (ratatouille samosa, chicken ginger kebabs etc). Booking essential.
Zucca Magica €€
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( 04 93 56 25 27; www.lazuccamagica.com ; 4bis quai Papacino; menus €30; Tue-
Sat; ) Bursting with vegetarian surprises, the 'Magic Pumpkin' serves a fixed five-
course menu, dictated simply by the market and the chef's fancy. Seating is amid a fab-
ulous collection of pumpkins and fairy lights. Bring along a gargantuan appetite.
VEGETARIAN
Emilie's Cookies €
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( www.emiliescookies.com ; 1 rue de la Préfecture; cookies from €2, sandwiches & salads
around €6; 9am-6.30pm Tue-Sat, from 10am Sun; ) As the name suggests, Emilie
does a mean cookie. But not only: there are also gorgeous salads, bagels and lattes if you
fancy a change from standard espressos. Take it away on your city ventures, or eat in the
pretty, retro cafe.
CAFE
Drinking
Any of the cafe terraces on cours Saleya are lovely for an early evening aperitif. Vieux
Nice's bounty of pubs attracts a noisy, boisterous crowd but there are also plenty of more
sophisticated establishments.
Les Distilleries Idéales
CAFE
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(24 rue de la Préfecture; 9am-12.30am) Whether you're after an espresso on your way
to the cours Saleya market, or an aperitif (complete with cheese and charcuterie platters,
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