Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Keisuke Matsushima, alias Kei, makes heads turn at a minimalist space dedicated to his
trademark cuisine: Mediterranean (lots of Italian influence) with a subtle dash of the Ori-
ent. The presentation is a work of art and the content of the cellar is as stellar as the food
(and exclusively French). Booking essential.
L'Escalinada €€
( 04 93 62 11 71;
www.escalinada.fr
; 22 rue Pairolière; menu €24, mains €15-23;
lunch & dinner daily)
This enchanting old-town auberge has been one of the best places in
town for Mediterranean favourites for the last half-century: melt-in-your-mouth
homemade gnocchi with tasty
daube
(Provençal beef stew), grilled prawns with garlic and
herbs, Marsala veal stew. The staff are delightful and the welcome kir is on the house. No
credit cards.
NIÇOIS
La Cave de l'Origine €€
( 04 83 50 09 60; 3 rue Dalpozzo; mains €15-22; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat)
This
sleek new wine bar-restaurant has as much substance as style. As you would expect from
a wine emporium, there is a great selection of wines by the glass, many of them local, and
fantastic advice about what to try with your food (well-executed, modern French fare with
a touch of fusion).
MODERN FRENCH
Le Comptoir du Marché €
( 04 93 13 45 01; 8 rue du marché; mains €13-15; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat)
With its
vintage kitchen decor and recession-proof prices, it's no wonder the Comptoir, which
opened in early 2012, is off to a flying start. There are five or six daily mains, scribbled on
a chalkboard. The cuisine is a modern twist on French traditional recipes, with lentil
stews, raviolis, confit rabbit and even
os à moelle
(bone marrow).
MODERN FRENCH
NIÇOIS
La Merenda €€
(4 rue Raoul Bosio; mains €12-15; Mon-Fri)
Simple, solid Niçois cuisine by former
Michelin-starred chef Dominique Le Stanc draws the crowds to this pocket-sized bistro
(you'll be rubbing back and shoulders with fellow customers). The tiny open kitchen
