MOSCOW - Moscow and St Petersburg - page 25

CANTEENS AND CAFÉS
Art Lebedev Bol. Nikitskaya 35; Arbatskaya. This itty-bitty café attracts a literary crowd.
Come for light breakfasts (R170) and salads (R230), or more substantial dishes such as
vareniki (Ukrainiandumplingswithcheese,potatoesorcherries;R270)andhome-made pel-
meni (meat dumplings; R310). Daily 8.30am-11pm.
Jagganath Kuznetskiy most 11; Kuznetskiy Most. Make your way through a little health-
food shop to get to this veggie canteen. Fresh salads and soups (both from R80), curries and
light cakes make a nice change from the carb-heavy and dairy dishes found elsewhere in the
city. Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat & Sun 10am-11pm.
Khachapuri B. Gnezdnikovskiy 10 hacha.ru ; Tverskaya. Some of the city's tastiest Ge-
orgian grub is served at this cosy and inexpensive café, with live piano recitals laid on
in the evenings. The exquisite meat khinkali (large dumplings; R80) and the khachapuri
(bread oozing with melted cheese; R120) are unmissable. Superb-value business lunches
(R210-500). Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat & Sun from 11am.
Lyudi kak Lyudi Solyanskiy Tupik 1/4 ludikakludi.com ; Kitay-gorod. Small café with a
cosy wine cellar feel. Feast on tasty sandwiches (R150) and pies (R130) as well as more
substantial dishes like lasagne (R120), washed down with a freshly prepared juice (R130).
Daily 8am-11pm, Fri & Sat until 6am.
Varenichnaya Pobeda Arbat 29; Arbatskaya. This café-cum-restaurant, decorated with
all manner of Soviet knick-knacks, rustles up over 90kg of exquisite handmade vareniki
(Ukrainian dumplings; R150) every day. Daily 10am-midnight.