North Of The Liffey - Dublin - page 281

1864, and the bandstand in the Hollow. Across Chesterfield Ave from the Áras an
Uachtaráin - and easily visible from the road - is the massive Papal Cross , which marks the
site where Pope John Paul II preached to 1.25 million people in 1979. In the centre of the
park the Phoenix Monument , erected by Lord Chesterfield in 1747, looks so unlike a phoenix
that it's often referred to as the Eagle Monument.
Dublin Zoo
Established in 1831, the 28-hectare Dublin Zoo ( www.dublinzoo.ie ; Phoenix Park; adult/child/family €16/
11.50/45.50; 9.30am-6pm Mar-Sep, 9.30am-dusk Oct-Feb; 10 from O'Connell St, 25 & 26 from Middle Ab-
bey St) just north of the Hollow is one of the oldest in the world. It is well known for its li-
on -breeding program, which dates back to 1857, and includes among its offspring the lion
that roars at the start of MGM films. You'll see these tough cats, from a distance, on the
'African Savanna', just one of several habitats created in the last few years.
The zoo is home to roughly 400 animals from 100 different species, and you can visit
all of them across the eight different habitats that range from an Asian jungle to a family
farm, where kids get to meet the inhabitants up close and even milk a (model) cow. There
are restaurants, cafes and even a train to get you round.
Áras an Uachtaráin
The residence of the Irish president is a Palladian lodge that was built in 1751 and enlarged
a couple of times since, most recently in 1816. It was home to the British viceroys from
1782 to 1922, and then to the governors general until Ireland cut ties with the British
Crown and created the office of president in 1937. Queen Victoria stayed here during her
visit in 1849, when she appeared not to even notice the Famine. The candle burning in the
window is an old Irish tradition, to guide 'the Irish diaspora' home.
Tickets for the free one-hour tours (Phoenix Park; guided tours hourly 10am-4pm Sat) F can be
collected from the Phoenix Park Visitor Centre ( 10am-5.45pm daily Mar-Sep, 9.30-5.30pm Wed-Sun Oct-
Feb) , the converted former stables of the papal nunciate, where you'll see a 10-minute in-
troductory video before being shuttled to the Áras itself to inspect five state rooms and the
president's study. If you can't make it on a Saturday, just become the elected president of
your own country or a Nobel laureate or something, and then wrangle a personal invite.