Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Admiring modern art in exquisite surroundings at the Irish Museum of Modern Art
Explore Kilmainham & the Liberties
Stretching westward along the Liffey from the city centre, you'll need a little bit of plan-
ning to get the most out of these two historic neighbourhoods. Coming from the heart of
the city centre, you'll first stumble into the Liberties, on the edge of which are Dublin's
two medieval cathedrals, built when the Liberties was a vibrant centre of industry. The
area has been beset by myriad social problems in the last couple of centuries, yet it retains
the passionate pride of a community that has been knitted together over many centuries,
and many Dubliners are increasingly looking nostalgically towards the area as an example
of their city 'in the rare auld times'.
Their nostalgia is usually expressed over a few pints, and the western border of the
Liberties is where you'll find the source of their favourite nectar, the Guinness brewery at
St James's Gate, where an old storehouse has been converted into the city's most visited
museum. Further west again, just as the Liffey becomes more of a pastoral river in the
riverside burg of Kilmainham, you'll come across the country's greatest modern-art mu-
seum and Kilmainham Gaol, which has played a key role in the tormented history of a
country's slow struggle to gain its freedom. Both are well worth the westward trek (which
can be made easier by bus). This is strictly day-trip territory - there's almost nothing in
the way of accommodation and just a couple of decent eating options.
Local Life
» Garden Walks The Italianate garden at the Irish Museum of Modern Art ( Click here )
is beautiful for a gentle amble, but one of the city's best-kept open secrets is the War Me-
morial Gardens ( Click here ) in Kilmainham, which runs along the Liffey.
» Markets The Dublin Food Co-op ( Click here ) in Newmarket is one of the city's best,
and an excellent example of socially responsible retailing; it thrives thanks to the dedica-
tion of its many customers.
» Hangout The Fumbally Cafe ( Click here ) is bringing cafe life to the Liberties.
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