Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sivananda means following the rules: eight daily hours of outdoor yoga and
meditation, and no meat, booze or cigarettes. Accommodations range from tent
camping (sites $60) to barebones dorms ($70) to nicely furnished private huts
($130). There's an Ayurveda clinic with Thai massage and healing oil treat-
ments, and nightly lectures from experts in spirituality and natural health. Keep
in mind that this ain't no luxury retreat - facilities are shared, meals are veget-
arian buffets, and long-term guests are super-serious about their discipline (as
in, 'I've been living here for three years' serious). If that's not your idea of a va-
cation, you can drop in on yoga classes or meals for $10. The only way to get
here is by boat, which leaves regularly from the Mermaid Dock on E Bay St in
Nassau.
EATING
Dining in Nassau can be a demoralizing experience: with high prices, huge crowds and low
quality. But don't despair - with a little extra patience and forethought, you can find any-
thing from cheap and authentic Bahamian home cooking to sublime sushi to the kind of
haute cuisine that would feel at home in Paris or New York. In these listings, places with
phone details indicate that reservations are recommended.
Downtown Nassau
Too many downtown Nassau eateries are high-volume food factories for the cruise ship
hordes. But look carefully and you'll find plenty of places that are serious about good cook-
ing. The further away from the wharf, the better.
Café Matisse
ITALIAN, INTERNATIONAL $$
( 242-356-7012;
www.café-matisse.com
;
Bank Lane; mains $15-26; lunch & dinner
Tue-Sat) Tucked in the shadows of historic buildings and leafy palms, this casually elegant
bistro just off Parliament Sq is a delightful escape from the cruise-ship-and-Bay-St-mob
scene. Savor top-notch pastas, pizzas and seafood dishes on the inviting back patio where
you'll be served by crisp-shirted waiters to the sounds of cool world beats. If you don't opt
for wine, try the refreshing ginger lemonade.
Graycliff Restaurant
CONTINENTAL $$$
( 242-322-2796;
www.graycliff.com
;
8-12 W Hill St; mains $35-68; lunch Mon-
Fri, dinner daily) Make like a colonial-era dignitary at this hushed restaurant, in the atmo-
spherically creaky parlor of the 18th- century Graycliff Hotel. French-style dishes take in-
