Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
High-pressure salesmen tell tourists they can buy the glass at a “50 percent discount,”
but still they pay more than twice what it's worth. It isn't Murano glass. It's shoddy
glass mass-produced somewhere else: Taiwan, China, Russia, the Czech Republic—who
knows.
“We've complained to the authorities that this is false merchandising. The Chamber of
Commerce doesn't do anything to help honest tourism, either.”
In the meantime, his company simply refuses to work within that corrupt system. No
commissions from tours or taxi boat drivers or concierges to steer business their way. And
you will never find phony, knockoff glassware in the store.
Then he walked out on the street with us and pointed out the stores that had been
pushed out by the high-fashion stores on his street. “That first alley on the left—it used to
have a butcher, a florist and a bread shop. All disappeared. It's only the international fash-
ion people who can afford the rents.”
With our package in hand we strolled to a taverna for lunch. Matteo had told us where
it was but made us promise to never tell another tourist. And, sure enough, we were the
only people in the intimate restaurant who did not speak Italian. The only other foreigner
was a Norwegian woman who had lived in Venice for several years and was back visiting
friends. The antipasto was a buffet the likes of which I had never seen. I filled my plate
with voluptuous red peppers and eggplants dribbled with olive oil from heaven, saving a
small space for delicate anchovies. Our entrée was fish, caught that morning and delivered
to our table without a word; it glided on our forks. What a luxury to eat at a restaurant that
offers one entrée that is the best the day can offer. The only decision we had to make was
whether to drink the house red or white wine. Superb!
Back in the street we started noticing the other trend that worried our Venetian
friends—the wave of Chinese tourism hitting their already overcrowded city. Matteo had
pointed out the pizza parlors and cafés recently purchased by Chinese in order to cater to
the rising number of Chinese tourists. I suggested there was something racist about worry-
ing specifically about the Chinese and not, say, the Russians, who are just as likely to buy
up property but are harder to distinguish by their looks. No, said Matteo, the Chinese are
doing business specifically for Chinese tourists. I countered that this was what internation-
al hotel chains did as well. The French want to stay at a Sofitel; Americans at a Marriott.
Matteo said it was worse. Some Chinese were caught setting up dress factories in Italy us-
ing illegal Chinese labor just to be able to put a “Made in Italy” label on the clothes. I
guess it is China's turn to be the “ugly tourist” after we Americans and then the Japanese
played the role so well. But then again, only the Chinese are expected to break all records
and take 100 million trips every year beginning in 2020.
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