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Ferns and vines crisscross the bushes and trees in no pattern. We tucked our pants into our
socks to keep out critters.
We stopped in front of a particularly thick, tall tree, and the men gathered bowling-ball-
size nuts that had dropped from its branches. With an impressive knife, one of the foresters
cut open the shell and out fell a dozen or so Brazil nuts. He took one, sliced off the thick
skin and gave it to me to eat. It was soft and sweet like the meat of a coconut, with the
taste of a scented fruit. Not at all like the Brazil nuts that we crack open at Christmastime.
Another group arrived. This time they were visitors from Mozambique, also foresters who
shared the same colonial language of Portuguese and the same imperative to save their
tropical forests. They were taking notes.
After an hour we headed back to the compound, where the adults were making han-
dicrafts and the children studying in their common room. We had to leave before sunset.
Fuller said Bill Marriott was attracted by the enormity of this vision and by Dr. Viana's
modern business approach. After a thorough review by independent accountants Marri-
ott contributed an initial $2 million to the project. It will never become a tourist resort or
provide any income for the corporation.
“This preserve works. It does what it says it would do and offsets some of our carbon
footprint,” said Mr. Fuller. That matter-of-fact appraisal reflects the consensus among the
elite ranks of the industry that tourism has to improve its environmental record.
We trod carefully down the permanently damp stairs and climbed back into the boats.
As we pulled out, a flock of parakeets rose above the trees, their cries echoing unimpeded
in silence. In that clean evening sky, the sun turned a blood-orange before it disappeared
behind the curve of the earth.
• • •
Brazil won in its bid to host the 2016 Summer Olympics. The games will be held in South
America for the first time, in Rio de Janeiro. There was no doubt about Brazil's commit-
ment to visitors and tourism. President Lula wept at the announcement, saying, “Today is
the most emotional day in my life, the most exciting day of my life.”
The Juma Reserve has won official recognition by the United Nations REDD program
to reduce carbon emission from deforestation and forest degradation. Marriott has helped
build seven community schools in the reserve and is funding more programs through con-
tributions from Marriott hotels in Brazil.
The tourism industry continues to give awards: for best hotel advertisements, websites,
package tours, country destination, theme park advertisement, resort brochure and now for
protecting the environment and culture. The World Travel and Tourism Council's Tour-
ism for Tomorrow Awards that Marriott won are the equivalent of an Oscar. The Condé
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