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Marketplace; % 702/632-9366; www.chocolateswan.com; daily 8am-10pm;
AE, DISC, V, MC; $ ), which “flew” here about 4 years ago from a suburb
outside of Milwaukee, where one of the top execs of Mandalay Bay hap-
pened to be visiting. Dazzled by the Swan's éclairs and truffles, he con-
vinced owners Mary and Robert Basta to relocate to the new Shops at
Mandalay Bay. You'll find it right next to Burger Bar on the mall level. So
what makes the Swan so popular? I'd have to say it's the devoted—some
might say insane—care that goes into every stage of the confectionary
process. First there are the ingredients, all top-flight and flown in from all
corners of the globe. Next there's the care with which these ingredients
are treated (if you feel the staff here seems to be “walking on eggshells,”
you may be right—every egg used in the pastries is first bathed in a hot
bleach-water bath and then cracked into a cup. If they get a bad egg, it's
tossed). You'll taste the results of these extreme efforts in the voluptuous-
ness of the éclairs, the dense and complex carrot cake that features
Viennese cream between the layers and a cream cheese frosting, and the
Belgian-quality chocolates. Service is either at the counter, or at comfort-
able cafe tables where waitresses will go over the menu with you (for
those who can't decide, they usually suggest a plate of mini pastries) and
tell you about possible dessert wine pairings. It's a lovely place for an
after-supper drink and sweet, with pretty good people watching to boot.
Of course Las Vegas is home to the world's largest chocolate fountain—
well, where else would it be?—and worshipping at this shrine of indulgence
at Jean Phillipe Patisserie 555 (in the Bellagio; % 888/987-3846;
www.bellagio.com; Sun-Thurs 7am-11pm, Fri-Sat 7am-midnight; AE, DISC,
MC, V; $ ) is a kick and a half. Twenty-seven feet high, with 2100 pounds
of flowing chocolate gushing through it minute to minute, it has Willy
Wonka-like proportions. I only wish it weren't encased in glass—I'd like to
bathe in the darn thing (probably not a good idea, as it's about 120°F/
49°C in liquid form). Beyond the visual stimulation, of course, is the oral
stimulation, and though I can't say it's because the chocolate is churned
in such a showy manner, it's top-shelf stuff. Along with a smorgasbord of
chocolates, there are 26 different sorts of pastries ($5.50 each), and these
are no ordinary pastries—Jean Phillipe Maury is the world pastry champion
so he has a deft hand with a cream puff, let me tell you. There's also a
pretty good selection of salads and sandwiches to line your stomach with
so you don't get a tummy ache from all the sugar.
chip cookies ($1) and Caesar salad ($9). Last time I was here, I finally gave in to
temptation . . . and purchased two of the cookbooks by chef/master magician
James Boyar to try and figure out how the heck they made the pulled pork sand-
wich ($10) so appealing at just 355 calories; or the lettuce-wrapped chicken
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