Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
MC, V) is not a bad choice, about a 10-minute drive from the northern end of the
Strip. A shuttle for both the Strip (with stops at Fashion Show Mall, Tropicana,
and Excalibur) and the airport leaves every hour throughout the day. Like the
Gold Coast it tends to attract an older crowd, though younger people won't feel
out of place here, especially if they're on a budget. A staffer whispered in my ear
that a certain number of rooms are always set aside to sell at $29 a night, a fact I
haven't been able to confirm. Still, you'll often be able to get the rooms for a reli-
ably reasonable amount, usually between $29 and $59 midweek, up to $129 on
weekends (but often less than that). In the new tower, rooms come with Ethan
Allen-type furniture, brass lamps, and fancy wooden headboards. Medium-sized,
they feel a bit cramped with two queens in them so if you can, go for a king-bed-
ded room. The lowest prices are usually to be had in the motor lodge section of
the property, which is a good 20 years older than the tower, with even smaller
rooms and only stall showers (no tubs). Still it's comfortable in a Motel 6 kind of
way. Two smallish pools and a functional fitness room are also available for guest
use.
The casino itself has a cute turn-of-the-century railroad theme, with actual his-
toric cars out front. It's not as cutting edge as some of the other Station Casinos
(such as Sunset Station, Green Valley Ranch, and Texas station), but I don't rec-
ommend those as they're even farther from the Strip—a good half-hour as
opposed to 10 minutes. Lots of video poker and an impressive range of talent in
the lounge make this a local's favorite, so if you're hoping to meet some of the
folks who actually live in town, this is a good place to bunk.
$$-$$$$ Love it or hate it, it's impossible to feel neutral about the Artisan
Hotel & Spa 55 (1501 W. Sahara Ave.; % 800/544-7092 or 702/214-4000; www.
theartisanhotel.com; AE, DC, MC, V), which to my mind wins the prize for most
genuinely creative, artistic, and just plain funky hotel in Vegas. You'll know as
soon as you enter its romantic cave of a lobby, in which flickering candles are the
main source of light, that this place is different. And startlingly beautiful, with
every inch of wall space, and ceiling space for that matter, covered with repro-
duced art works of the world's great masters—Rembrandt, Picasso, Rivera,
Manet—displayed in ornate, gilded frames. The air is dense with flamenco guitar
music (or throbbing house music—what's playing will depend on the time of
day), a grand Belle Epoque fountain (all lightly draped maidens on swirling rocks)
bubbles in one corner, and throughout the room overstuffed sofas and chairs of
velvet, leather, or French Empire-styling crouch, await the lounging hipsters who
crowd the space, and its popular bar/restaurant come evening. This infatuation
with great art is carried into the guest rooms, each of which is devoted to a differ-
ent artist—Frida Kahlo, Klimt, Sargent, or more obscure choices such as Kazimir
or Malevich—and covered with their works exclusively. Now, all of this art has a
practical purpose, too—it's meant to conceal the fact that this is a converted
Econolodge, so the 64 rooms here are fairly small and the exterior is nothing to
crow about. But despite their size, guest rooms are chicly appointed, the beds cov-
ered in duvets, throws, and 12 pillows apiece (including decorative ones). As in
the lobby, the walls are colored a chocolate brown or deep purple and the light-
ing is dim, for a womblike . . . or dank cave effect . . . depending on your point
of view. Bathrooms are tiled all in black and are among the smallest in the city.
There's also a teeny tiny workout room; and a reasonably spacious pool out back,
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