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place living spaces on top of businesses, resulting in places such as The District.
Of course, in other cities the shops, restaurants, and businesses below tend to have
character and a sense of place. Here, it's really just an outdoor mall that sprouted
in the middle of the parking lot of a casino. (Seriously. Green Valley Ranch
Resort, to be more specific.)
Now, locals have the chance to purchase a loft (Vegas vocabulary for an expen-
sive, airy apartment) above Ann Taylor Loft, Williams-Sonoma, Anthropologie,
and Along Came A Spider; or above restaurants such as La Salsa (now, there's a
smell to awaken to). The local response has been overly enthusiastic, as though
intelligent utilization of space is a fresh concept. It's a smart-looking area—don't
get me wrong. But the prestige (and there truly is prestige attached) of living
above a mall is simply bizarre.
Beyond the Fuzzy Dice
Clotheshorses and fashionistas be damned: The most characteristic shop-
ping that Las Vegas has to offer, hands-down, lies in its souvenir shops.
Here, products are representative of the true Vegas economy, which revolves
around entertainment; indulgence; kitsch; and you, the tourist.
Each show and major attraction also has a gift shop. Where else will you
ever find a Céline Dion pencil but at the Céline Dion store, inside Caesars
Palace? Where could you find a Barry Manilow bottle of wine, or a BM
beach towel, aside from the Barry Manilow store (complete with a record-
ing studio where you can actually sing his music and buy your own CD) at
The Las Vegas Hilton? From the teddy bear gondoliers at the Venetian to
the red, white, and blue hot pants Liberace Beanie Bears of the Liberace
Museum (p. 131), it's easy to find unique, themed trinkets in Las Vegas
that you never knew you wanted—such as the “Radioactive” patches and
Einstein action figures at the Atomic Testing Museum (p. 130).
But the mother of all gift shops is Bonanza Gifts 555 (2440 Las Vegas
Blvd. S.; % 702/385-7359; www.worldslargestgiftshop.com; daily
8am-midnight). This place heralds itself as “The World's Largest Gift
Shop,” and though they're likely building something to rival it in Dubai,
it's certainly the biggest and the best in Las Vegas. I actually avoided this
place for years, assuming it would be just another cheap fuzzy dice outlet.
When I finally submitted, I learned it certainly is a cheap fuzzy dice out-
let—and so much more. Aside from the T-shirts and postcards, there's also
the lighted and iconic miniature “Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas” sign,
witty and crass T-shirts that even locals buy, an enormous collection of
Archie McPhee toys (if you haven't yet discovered the wonders of McPhee,
with its Avenging Unicorn set and an entire line of Jesus collectibles, now
is the time: www.archiemcphee.com), and enough gag gifts to make you
choke. The selection goes on forever, and one thing is more
funny/kitschy/useless and stupid than the next. It's a delight!
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