Travel Reference
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that's imitating a restaurant in one of those cities. And if you're like me you'll start
looking around and wondering where these people with the blunt haircuts, the
geek-cool glasses, and the intense conversations came from. I mean, I actually
overheard someone discussing national politics here—and in a serious manner,
too. Not to say that this is some student coffee shop-type place, this is a swing-
ing, fun tapas bar with a killer cocktail list and overflowing pitchers of fruit-filled
sangria. Tapas, after all, is a group sport that invites conviviality; diners who don't
know how to play nice and share, won't be asked back. But with so much to
share—62 different types of tapas—even the greediest Guses won't have any prob-
lems. The real difficulty here is picking because so much of it is so good. You
could woo your date with stuffed dates ($4), which are over-the-top sinful,
swathed in bacon, bathed in a red wine reduction and filled with almonds and
blue cheese. Then, for a contrast, get a plate of mouth-puckering pickled
boquerones
($4.50), white anchovies with roasted red and yellow peppers. The
ham and cheese croquettes ($5) are as crisp outside and molten inside as any I've
ever had in Barcelona, and the chorizo sausage with clams ($9) plate is an inspired
variation on surf-and-turf. Request to be seated on the serene porch if it's warm
enough; the inside with its ochre art covered walls and crowded bar is buzzing
with energy, but can gat a tad cramped.
RESTAURANTS WEST OF THE STRIP
With two exceptions, my choices west of the Strip require a car. Much of the good
restaurants on this side of town are simply too far to cab to, especially if you're on
a budget. That's not to say these picks aren't worth the drive—they absolutely
are—it's just that the expense of getting there should be factored into the cost of
the meal.
$
Closest to the Strip (in fact you'll see its swooshing arrow sign from I-15),
Vegas'
In 'N Out Burger
5
(4888 Dean Martin Dr.; Sun-Thurs 10:30am-1am,
Fri-Sat 10:30am-1:30am; MC, V)
is the most popular of its kind in the nation. On
my last visit, I ordered and was handed number 108; they were calling 62 at that
point. No “In and out” meal for me; I got my burger ($1.80), fries ($1.30) and
shake ($1.90) in about half an hour. Am I complaining? Well, maybe a little, but
I'm a big fan of this ever-expanding burger chain (with 170 stores at last count),
the anti-McDonalds in that none of the ingredients used is ever frozen or put
under a heat lamp. How do I know? They don't even have those instruments in the
stores. Instead, produce is delivered every 2 days, buns baked every morning, and
each and every additive-and-preservative-free burger is cooked to order. Take a
peek behind the counter, and you'll see one bored-looking fellow patiently feeding
Idaho potatoes into an electric mandolin, which slices them into French fry shapes,
which are then poured into a vat of bubbling vegetable oil (no lard used here). For
those who want something beyond the very simple menu posted over the counter,
there's a “secret” menu, with such items as the “animal style” burger (it costs the
same, but comes slathered with mustard, special sauce, pickles, and grilled onions)
and the “Wish burger” (which may have gotten its name from people who wish
they weren't vegetarians—it comes with every topping except meat). Another In-
'N-Out “secret” are the tiny biblical citations printed on the wrappers and cups,
