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DISC, MC, V), which has a bodacious wait staff, and a cantina-on-steroids interior,
with benches so rough hewn I worried I'd get splinters, adobe walls with endless
displays of colorful Mexican folk art, and twinkling metal star-shaped lighting fix-
tures. A huge wooden bar with a rowdy crowd dominates the center of the room.
Outside there's a patio overlooking the Hard Rock pool for prime hottie viewing
opportunities. Now, I know I said food is somewhat beside the point (and it is,
especially during the two-for-the-price-of-one margarita happy hour), which
makes it a cheery surprise that it's actually okay—not as good as Lindo Michoacan
(p. 100), of course, but five steps above your average fast-food burrito joint. Its
signature dish, the Pink Taco ($8.50) is a lovely mix of pickled onions, chunks of
chicken, guacamole, and salsa rioja for color (if not spice) in a freshly baked tor-
tilla. Corn tamales ($6) have such a strong taste of sweet summer corn they could
almost be served as a dessert (that's a compliment), and the carne asada (whether
on its own or in a taco) is marinated until tender and then cooked to just the right
shade of pink ($15 or $9.75). The menu even includes some fairly unusual
choices such as baby ribs in a watermelon BBQ sauce ($15); and chile relleno
($9.75), a roasted poblano pepper filled with beans and cheese and doused in a
tomatoey red sauce. For those watching their figures—maybe they want to work
here?—there are oversized salads. Dieters, however, may find themselves slipping
when confronting the “chocolate taco” ($5.50), a South of the Border ice cream
sandwich, beautiful to look at, messy to eat, but oh so worth it. Folks with small
appetites (or small wallets) should know that it's possible to order just one taco,
without all the sides, for just $3.25. Oh, and if you think the title is rather vul-
gar, well, I'd have to agree—but don't let that keep you away.
$-$$ East Las Vegas also has its share of buffets, with two prime choices way
out on the Boulder Highway (a loose slot mecca, so you could potentially gamble
here long enough to score a free buffet meal). Tried and true American and Tex-
Mex food at a fair price can be found at The Feast Gourmet Buffet 9 (in
Boulder Station, 4111 Boulder Hwy.; % 800/683-7777; www.boulderstation.com;
breakfast $ 6, lunch $ 7, dinner $ 10 except on Fri steak nights, when it's $ 13 and
children 4-12 receive a $ 1 discount, 3 and under dine free; daily 7am-10pm; AE,
DISC, MC, V). It's nothing to get all that excited about, but the service is very
friendly (rare at a buffet), the omelet bar at brunch well organized, and the
pizzas, burgers, tacos and the like are full of flavor and, wonder of wonders, served
HOT (a problem at some buffets). As a mom, I appreciate the kids' discount and
the all-around cheap prices. You may not remember your meal here in 20 years
when you're thinking back on that wild and wooly trip you took to “Lost Wages,”
but what you save on grub may fund adventures elsewhere.
$-$$ A step up, in terms of decor and food choice, Sam's Firelight
Buffet 55 9 (in Sam's Town Hotel and Gambling Hall, 5111 Boulder Hwy.;
% 800/897-8696 or 702/456-7777; www.samstown.com; breakfast $ 6, lunch $ 8,
dinner starts at $ 11 but goes up to $ 12 Thurs for Pacific Rim night, $ 14 Wed and
Sat for steak and prime rib night, and $ 18 Fri for seafood night; children pay $ 2
less at breakfast, $ 3 less every other meal; AE, DISC, MC, V) gives its customers
something no other buffet can offer: dinner and a show. It's a silly show, to be
sure, but kids will like watching the animatronic animals in the center of the hotel
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