Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Rd.;
%
702/735-6828; www.lindomichoacan.com; Mon-Wed 11am-10pm,
Thurs-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am-11pm; AE, DISC, MC, V)
reopened in late
2004 after a bad kitchen fire. Las Vegas boasts a large Mexican community, and
when those Latinos have a special occasion to celebrate, this is where they come.
Founded by Javiar Barajas, who named it after his beautiful
(lindo)
native state in
Mexico, the food here is heavenly . . . possibly because Barajas learned to cook
from the Mother Superior at the seminary he attended as a boy. And that good
lady knew all sorts of recipes that Taco Bell never heard of, making this a great
place for adventurous eaters. They'll salivate over such exotica as beef tongue tacos
($9.25) or goat meat simmered with chiles in beer ($12, it's actually pretty amaz-
ing how well the combo works). Michoacan, the state, is famous for its
carnitas
($12)—braised pork, marinated with oranges and spice—and this may be the one
dish on the menu that's a must-order, though it gets a real run for the money from
the mole poblano ($10), which had the deepest, richest mole sauce I've ever tried.
Tacos, enchiladas, burritos, tamales, and all of those other Mexican favorites,
often on combination plates, are also available, along with guacamole made table-
side ($4.95) and wallop-packing margaritas. Upon entering, take a peek at the
ladies in the center room making the corn tortillas by hand. Lunch specials go for
just $5.95 to $7.95, including a beverage. Children's plates are available for $4.95
and come with a Shirley Temple, which my kids really liked. Thanks to the mari-
achi music and the Crayola-colored setting, with its mottled yellow walls, mural-
painted chairs,
papel picado
(cut paper banners) strung from the ceiling, and
Mexican folk art pieces everywhere, it really does feel like a party from the moment
you arrive. The only thing my kids didn't like—and I wasn't too pleased about it
either—were the long waits first to get a table, then to get a menu, then to have
our order taken . . . well, you get the picture. So pack your patience, as it will be
rewarded, but allocate at least 2 hours for a meal here. By the way, if you're into
celebrity spotting, you can sometimes get a glimpse of Steffi Graf and husband
Andre Agassi, who are regulars; they like this place so much it's where they had
their informal post-wedding meal 4 days before Graf gave birth to their first child.
$-$$
The grand poobah of the city's ethnic restaurants, named the “Single Best
Thai Restaurant in North America” by no less an authority than
Gourmet,
and
my own personal pick for best restaurant in Vegas, is the venerable
Lotus of
Siam
555
(953 E. Sahara Ave.;
%
702/735-3033; www.saipinchutima.com;
Mon-Thurs 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30-9:30pm, Fri 11:30am-2:30pm and
5:30-10pm, Sat-Sun 5:30-10pm; AE, DISC, MC, V).
It gets all these plaudits with-
out all the extras that tend to dazzle diners at other restaurants. Its location is ter-
rible, in a dingy strip mall (with a notorious swingers club several doors down);
its decor ho hum, most notable for the dozens of photos of beaming, full-looking
celebrities; and if you come late at lunchtime you'll likely be upset that the buffet
is one of diminishing returns, as it doesn't get refilled when the food runs out. But
this is not a buffet-type place anyway, nor should you just expect upgrades of your
same-old, same-old Pad Thai. To really
get
why foodies drive down from L.A.
regularly just to dine here (and I know a couple who do), you have to put your-
self in Bill's hands. Bill is the husband of chef Saipin Chutina, and he makes the
reverse trip to L.A. once a week to buy fresh ingredients, jetting off to Thailand
about once a month to get spices blended to his wife's specifications. Bill will
