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that isn't in either a casino or a strip mall), it feels radical for Vegas. Especially
when the jokey, friendly waiters let you linger over your cannoli ($3.50) and cof-
fee, filling up your cup over and over with nary a glance at their watches.
$$-$$$$
In the heart of downtown, just a block off Fremont Street, the
Triple
George
55
(201 N. 3rd St.;
%
702/384-2761; www.triplegeorgegrill.com;
Mon-Thurs 11am-10pm, Fri 11am-11pm, Sat 3-11pm, Sun 3-10pm; AE, DISC,
MC, V)
is where the Rat Pack would have gathered . . . if Triple George had existed
back then. Purposefully designed to look much older than it is—the owner's
inspiration was the Tedechi Grill (opened in 1849) in San Francisco—it's a clubby
place, a haunt of the city's political elite, who favor the private dark-wood booths
over the massive brass-railed bar/lunch counter (seating 36). You'll be transported
back about 50 years both by the setting and the selection of steaks, chops...and
seafood dishes named “casino” or “Louis.” Most old-fashioned, both in price and
selection, is the “George's Favorites” section of the menu, with its servings of pot
roast ($9.95), corned beef hash ($8.95), Ham Steak and Eggs ($8.95), and beef
stroganoff ($11), among others. Best of all are the flaky, deep-dish chicken potpie
($14) and a bacon-wrapped meatloaf ($9.95) that proves my theory that wrap-
ping bacon around just about anything is an automatic culinary home run. For
dessert there's an assortment of cakes, pies, and puddings ($3.95-$4.95), but I
like the oven-fresh cookies (half an inch thick and served warm) best. Stop by in
the evenings for a drink and perhaps a cigar at their piano lounge, featuring live
music nightly. During happy hour (4-6pm), martinis are discounted to just
$4.50 . . . and if there ever was a place designed to tipple martinis in, this is it. If
you were wondering about the odd name, it's a tribute to the menschen or good
people who helped found the restaurant (as “George” by their definition means “a
person who is free in giving and sharing”). Plastered across the walls are old black
and white photos of everyone the owners consider to be a George, and they'll
beam benignly down on you as you tuck into your martini, saw through your
hamburger steak, or buy everyone a round (another “George” quality—it makes
your own drink taste better).
$$
Perhaps it's a gambling superstition, but things tend to come in threes down-
town. Hence the
Triple Seven Brewery
5
(in Main Street Station, 200 Main St.;
%
800/713-8933 or 702/387-1896; www.mainstreetcasino.com; daily 11am-7pm;
AE, DISC, MC, V),
which not only has a triple title, it's one of three topnotch eater-
ies within the Main Street Station. An actual brewery with the massive copper-
brewing tanks to prove it, it's set in a soaring, high-ceilinged room that's
appropriately manly, with lots of brass, dark wood, and multiple TV screens
tuned to the hot game of the moment. Award-winning beers are the draw here,
whether you're quaffing one of their chocolaty porters (made from five different
malts), a Viennese-style lager, or their most popular: a High Roller gold wheat
beer. Rotating beer specials from Blueberry Wheat Ales to Cranberry Stouts keep
the locals returning time and again. The food's not up to the quality of the beer—
it's just typical pub grub—but after a couple of brewskies it'll taste downright
gourmet, whether you down a burger ($6.75), some honey Dijon wings ($5.95),
ribs ($9.75), or pizza ($7.75-$8.25). Breakfast is served starting at midnight.
They also do sushi here, alarmingly enough, but I wouldn't recommend it—it's
