Women Travellers - Jordan - page 613

Coffeehouses & Local Bars Often seen as a male domain; in some places the stares will
evict you even if the landlord won't.
Midrange Bars & Cafes Almost always welcoming of women in Amman and Aqaba;
less 'comprehending' (of your solo status) in smaller towns.
Public Beaches Magnet for unwanted attention; best to stick to resorts.
Restaurants Most have a 'family section' where women can eat alone and in peace.
Toilets Usually only one in small restaurants and bars; avoid where possible!
Tourist Sites Counter-intuitively, the best places to be 'alone' as a woman.
WHAT DOES A GIRL HAVE TO DO TO GET A BEER
AROUND HERE?
Author's Diary Entries of 1995, near Jerash
Thankfully times have changed since my first trip to Jordan, and solo women no longer present such an unusual
spectacle. Or is it that I've grown older and no-one's interested anymore? Either way, girls be warned: eating on
your own may bring more (or less) to your table than you expect. On the upside, travelling solo may well lead to
home-cooked meals by locals taking pity on you.
20 April 1995 Despite the neatly laid tables there were no guests to warrant the preparation of food - except me.
I braved a seat and sat shivering over the tablecloth in the corner. Eventually a waiter greeted me and brought cof-
fee. Shocked when I drank all the hot milk, he didn't return again and there was a limit to the length of time I could
sit staring at the fairy lights intermittently beaming over the concrete grotto. Another waiter came: 'Like to buy Ro-
man coin', he said (I was thinking rather more of a kebab - with chips). 'What about guide for tomorrow?' And fi-
nally, grabbing his crotch with gusto, 'Need a man?' I said, 'No thank you, but I wouldn't mind a beer'. That was
the last I saw of him, too - or of anybody for that matter.
21 April 1995 Went down to breakfast with renewed hope of food and was glad to find it arrived without further
negotiation. I could have done without the services of the hotel manager who felt it necessary to put most of the
breakfast things on the table in such a way that he had to brush my left breast to rearrange them. After the third 'ac-
cident', I gave him the evil eye and he went out grumbling. Gobbled a few olives, tried mixing the strawberry jam
with the soured goats' milk and popped a butter pat in whole thinking it was the local cheese. Another meal to re-
member in Jordan!
Responding to Persistent Harassment
Some behaviour may warrant a public scene: bystanders will quickly support you if
someone has overstepped the mark. Say out loud imshi (clear off): this should deter most