Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
History
Blending of Past & Present
Climbing off his donkey, a shepherd in a terraced field near Madaba tethers the animal to a
giant thistle and seeks refuge from the noon heat under a dolmen. Stretched full length un-
der the cold stone roof of this ancient burial chamber, he almost blends into the landscape -
until his mobile phone erupts in a rendition of 'We wish you a merry Christmas'.
In Jordan history is not something that happened 'before'. It's a living, breathing part of
everyday life, witnessed not just in the pragmatic treatment of ancient artefacts but also in
the way people live. Jordanians value their heritage and are in no hurry to eschew ways of
life that have proved successful for centuries. The familiar lineal approach to history, there-
fore, where one event succeeds another in an expectation of so-called 'progress', is almost
irrelevant in a country where past and present merge together so seamlessly.
The very entity of Jordan is a case in point. The political state within its current borders
is a modern creation, but it encompasses territory (east of the River Jordan) that has hosted
the world's oldest civilisations. Egyptians, Assyrians, Babylonians, Greeks, Nabataeans,
Romans, Crusaders and Turks all traded, built cities and fought wars here, leaving behind
rich cultural influences - leaning posts upon which modern Jordanians have built a proud
identity.
Main Periods of History
So are there any distinct historical periods? Not exactly. With some creativity, the abundant
historical clues scattered across Jordan can be shuffled into several distinct blocks of time
(seven for the purpose of this chapter). Each period of history features in the experiences of
a visitor to the country, not only through a pile of fallen columns by the side of the road,
but in the taking of tea with old custodians of the desert or the bargaining for a kilim with
designs inherited from the Byzantine era.
In fact, just step foot in Jordan and you begin your encounter with history. Visit the dol-
mens near Madaba, for example, and you enter the cradle of civilisation; dating from 4000
BC, the dolmens embody the sophistication of the world's first villages. The era of trading
in copper and bronze helped bring wealth to the region (1200 BC); you can find forgings
from Jordan's ancient copper mines near Feynan Ecolodge in the Dana Biosphere Reserve.
Travel the King's Highway and you'll not only be stepping in the path of royalty, but you'll
