Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Mafraq (possibly with a connection in Zarqa), and from Mafraq catch another minibus to
Umm al-Jimal.
If you're driving, head 16km east of Mafraq along Hwy 10 towards Safawi, then take
the signed turn-off north for 3km to Umm al-Jimal. If you have chartered a taxi from Am-
man for a day trip around the desert castles, it is possible to include Umm al-Jimal on the
itinerary for a little extra (about JD10) - but start early to fit it all in.
VISITING THE DESERT CASTLES BY
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Although this is one region that really repays extra expenditure on a tour or on car hire, that doesn't mean the
Eastern Desert is off limits to independent travellers on public transport. What it does mean is that you have to be
selective about the castles you want to visit and be realistic about the time it takes to get there. There's no accom-
modation in the region except at Azraq so early morning trips are best, giving you enough time to return to base. If
you leave Amman (or Irbid) in the afternoon for the Eastern Desert, you run a real risk of getting stranded.
You can visit the castles at
Umm Jimal
,
Hallabat
and
Azraq
by public transport, although it's almost impossible
to travel between these sites without returning to Amman - or at least Zarqa. You shouldn't rely on hitching as
there's little traffic.
Probably the most rewarding itinerary is to take the bus to Azraq (via Zarqa) and stay two nights. On the day of
arrival you can walk from the town to
Qasr Azraq
and the following morning you can visit the
Azraq Wetland
Reserve
. Take a taxi in the afternoon of the second day to
Qusayr Amra
and
Qasr Karana
and return to Azraq in
the evening. On the third day, you can head back to Amman.
Qasr Deir al-Kahf
Built in the 4th century, the 'Monastery of Caves' is a purpose-built Roman fort that
primarily served as a sentry post. Like its famous neighbour Umm al-Jimal, Deir al-Kahf
is also constructed of black basalt, though the scattered ruins here are not nearly as extens-
ive.
One of the highlights of Qasr Deir is approaching it along the back roads that lead for
30km or so from Umm al-Jimal. Several Druze settlements dot the way with traditional
basalt buildings still in use and small farms with active dovecotes staving off the northern
reaches of the Eastern Desert
There's no public transport to be relied upon to deliver you there and back in a day
from Amman or Irbid via Mafraq. By car, the easiest way to be sure you are on the right
