Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A few metres to the south is the
sheikh's house
Offline map
Google map
, notable
for its expansive courtyard, stables and stairways. Look for the gravity- defying stairs to
the north and the precarious corner tower. You can just make out a double stairway to the
east of the courtyard. After exiting the building you get a good view of the lovely arched
window and vaulted semicircular basement in the exterior eastern wall.
About 150m north of the double church, steps lead down to the
main reservoir
, one of
several around the city. Less than 100m to the left (southwest) is
house XIII
Offline map
Google map
, originally a stable for domestic goats and sheep, and later
renovated and used as a residence by Druze settlers. Here, take notice of the stone ventila-
tion screen, which was used to separate the manger from the living space.
To the west (about 100m) is the
cathedral
Offline map
Google map
, built in about
AD 556, but now mostly in ruins - look for the lintel stone detailing the Roman emperors
that ruled over the region. The
praetorium
Offline map
Google map
(military
headquarters) is less than 100m to the southwest. Built in the late 2nd century AD by the
Romans, it was extended by the Byzantines and features a triple doorway. About 200m to
the north through one of the old city gates is the
west church
Offline map
Google map
, easily identifiable by its four arches and ornate Byzantine crosses.
Information
Allow at least an hour or two to explore Umm al-Jimal, though its enormous size (800m
by 500m) does invite lengthier exploration. One of the highlights of a visit to the ruins is
scrambling across the shimmering black rocks, which radiate a surprising amount of
warmth. It's best to visit early in the morning, or late in the afternoon, when the black
basalt isn't too hot.
For more details about the site, look for the hard-to-find booklet
Umm el-Jimal
(JD3),
published by Al-Kutba and available sporadically at bookshops in Amman.
Getting There & Away
Umm al-Jimal is about 20km east of Mafraq and only 10km from the Syrian border. With
an early start, it is possible to do a day trip from Amman by public transport. From the
Abdali or Raghadan bus stations in Amman, catch a bus or minibus to Bedouin station in
