Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Qasr al-Hallabat
With a fair proportion of masonry still standing, some beautifully restored archways and a
desolate perch on the edge of the Eastern Desert, this
fort
(admission free; daylight
hr)
is an excellent introduction to the fabled desert castles of the region. Hallabat once
boasted elaborate baths, intricate frescoes and mosaics, a mosque and several reservoirs,
and served as a focus for a thriving farming community. Restoration of the site under
Spanish direction is helping to restore an inkling of the castle's former stature although
the project is likely to take many years to complete.
As with all the castles in Jordan, it takes a bit of sleuthing to peel back the layers of his-
tory. In the case of Hallabat, you need only focus on three main eras - Roman, Byzantine
and Umayyad.
Look first for a fine mosaic. This sits above a large central cistern and the ruins of the
original fort
. Built by the Romans during the reign of Emperor Caracalla (AD 198-217),
the fort, like many in the region, was originally built as a defence against raiding desert
tribes. As you survey the land from the castle hill, you can see why they picked this loca-
tion, as it would have been easy to spot men on horseback darting across the rocky plain.
Now look for additions in basaltic rock, easily distinguished by its black colour. If you
venture further into the Eastern Desert you'll find this volcanic rock scattered across vast
plains providing a ready supply of building materials. In the 6th century the fort was con-
verted by the Byzantines into a
monastery
for a short period, using the basalt blocks to
expand the Roman structure.
Lastly, admire the decorated finesse of limestone walls (distinguished by their white
colour), carved niches, reassembled arches and an elaborate porch with pillars. This is the
work of the Umayyads (AD 661-750) who revisited the structure under the reign of the
hedonistic caliph Walid II and transformed the modest fort into an imposing three-storey
complex with four large towers. Look for the remains of a
large mosque
with cusped
arches, an agricultural enclosure fed by an elaborate irrigation system and the ruins of a
village for palace servants that were included in the Umayyad's ambitious expansion pro-
ject. Wondering where the baths are? You'll have to travel 3km east to see the remains of
these, at Hammam as-Sarah.
Information
A museum is taking shape in the grounds of Qasr al-Hallabat, expected to open by 2013.
In the meantime, the courtyard of the adjacent but not yet functioning visitors centre is ad-
