Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WEAVING A FUTURE: THE WOMEN OF BANI
HAMIDA
The Bani Hamida rug-making initiative was established in 1985, with help from Save the Children, to bring paid
work to the newly settled Bedouin women of Mukawir district. The project began with only 12 women, all experi-
enced hand-loom weavers. Ten years later, the cooperative involved 1500 women from the surrounding hillsides
washing, carding, spinning and dyeing sheep's wool, and weaving the rugs. All these activities took place around
the usual business of looking after husband, family and home. Now supported by the Jordan River Valley Founda-
tion, the project employs 24 full-time staff, responsible for the coordination of the project, marketing in an interna-
tional arena and promoting the vision of the enterprise.
There have been challenges (such as competition, cheap imports and failing tourism) but the project continues to
be a success, empowering women in proportion to their involvement. Earning even a little extra money has brought
independence and social manoeuvrability, allowing women to change their lives and most significantly, those of
their children. When asked what the project meant for her family, one weaver at the showroom in Mukawir ex-
plained that she could afford to buy new pans from Madaba while another had funded a university education for her
son.
These changes have been achieved by harnessing, rather than rejecting, the traditional skills that have been
handed from mother to daughter since the days of Abraham, and which have helped define the Bedouin identity. As
such, buying a Bani Hamida rug is more than just making a purchase; it is affirming an ancient but evolving way of
life.
Getting There & Away
Frequent minibuses (600 fils, one hour) leave from outside the local bus station in Madaba
for the village of Mukawir, via Libb (the last is around 5pm). From there, it's a pleasant
downhill stroll to the foot of the castle, or ask the minibus driver to take you the extra dis-
tance for a few fils more. There is no return traffic between the castle car park and the vil-
lage, although one delighted traveller reported that the bus driver kindly waited for her
while she spent 30 minutes looking round the ruins.
By car, the road from the King's Highway snakes along a ridge with spectacular views.
An impressive new road links the site with Hammamat Ma'in and the Dead Sea.
Umm ar-Rasas
Umm ar-Rasas is one of those delightful surprises that crops up along the King's Highway
- although it doesn't look very promising from the outside! Despite being designated a
