Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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for a preview of yet-to-be-restored mosaics. The antique shop opposite is an Aladdin's
cave of copper coffee pots.
At the T-junction with Talal St, turn right for
St George's Church
, famed for its mosaic map, and visit cosy
Ayola Coffeeshop opposite. Backtrack along Talal St, passing clothing shops with their ancient mannequins. The
renowned restaurant
Haret Jdoudna
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is tucked into a traditional Madaba residen-
ce on the right; the craft shop here supports good causes. Continue uphill along Talal St towards
Dar Al-
Saraya
, preparing to become Madaba's main museum. The road curves uphill to
The Shrine of the Beheading
of John the Baptist
, a Catholic church constructed with Roman fragments. Compare the modern town vista (from
the belfry) with the black-and-white photographs exhibited in the gallery.
From the church, turn left along Ishac Al-Shuweihat St, passing
Adonis Restaurant
, atmospherically housed
in a grand old residence. Turn right on Princess Haiya St to
Madaba Museum
- a shady spot to absorb
Madaba's layered history.
Backtrack to Sulaiman Al-Alamat St and pass an unexcavated cathedral and fine houses. Turn right at the T-junc-
tion and head downhill, turning left onto Rocks Al-Ozizi St. Call into the tiny
Church of the Apostles
to see
imagined marine creatures in mosaic.
Walk north along the King's Highway past hardware stores abuzz with Bedouin shoppers in traditional head-
dresses. Turn uphill along Prince Faisal bin Al-Hussain St, noting the mosque's minaret rising majestically above
Madaba's skyline. At the crossroads, adorned with gold shops, tailors and haberdashers, turn right onto Firas Al
Ajlouni St.
Sleeping
Madaba has a good range of hotels, mostly run by Christian families, and all within easy
walking distance of the town's main sights. Prices include breakfast and private bathroom
unless otherwise noted. Although the hotels below are listed in order of recommendation,
it's hard to select a clear favourite as all offer very good value for money.
Black Iris Hotel$
GUESTHOUSE
( 3241959;
www.blackirishotel.com
;
near Al- Mouhafada Circle; s/d/tr JD22/30/40;
)
For a 'home away from home' feeling, it's hard to beat this family-run hotel. The car-
peted rooms, with thick blankets and fresh towels, are cosy and there's a spacious sitting
area where guests can drink coffee and read up on the town without being harassed. Its
'very special breakfast' is part of a long tradition at the guesthouse and includes date cake
and homemade fig jam. The owner (trained hotelier and former chef in Switzerland)
makes home-cooked Jordanian dishes on request in the evening, garnished with home-
