Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Crafted in AD 560, the map has 157 captions (in Greek) depicting all the major biblical
sites of the Middle East from Egypt to Palestine. It was originally around 15m to 25m
long and 6m wide, and once contained more than two million pieces. Although much of
the mosaic has been lost, enough remains to sense the majesty of the whole.
On Friday and Sunday morning the church opens at 7am for Mass (visitors welcome);
viewing the map at these times is not permitted. A small shop by the exit sells copies of
the map and reproduction Orthodox icons.
Before viewing the map, take a look at the full-size replica in the ticket office and spot
the details that you want to see in the church. The ticket office was being converted into
an interpretative centre at the time of writing and prices may increase to JD2 on reopen-
ing. The centre will offer visitors the chance to listen to a CD explaining the mosaic map
in several languages.
NAVIGATING THE MADABA MAP
It takes some orientation to be able to 'read' the Mabada Map spread across the floor of St George's Church.
Chances are you will intuitively look at the mosaic expecting north to be in front of you, towards the altar. In fact,
the map, and indeed the church itself, is oriented towards the east. Imagine, therefore, as you approach the map, that
you are in the hills west of Jerusalem, looking over the crenulated tops of the great city residences towards the Dead
Sea and follow the guide below for the highlights.
North (top left)
In the most touching part of the mosaic, fish in the River Jordan scamper back upstream from the lethal waters of
the Dead Sea, swimming under the cable-drawn ferries of the river crossing (marked today by King Hussein
Bridge). A bodiless lion pursues a gazelle just above Bethany, the supposed site of Jesus' baptism (marked as
'Sapsafas' on the map).
East (straight ahead)
The most exquisitely detailed part of the map is that depicting Jerusalem, complete with city walls, gates and the
central road (cardo). Becalmed on the waters of the Dead Sea, their oars at the ready, lie two boats going nowhere.
Perhaps they were trying to ferry Herod to the spa at Callirhöe (Zara), marked by three springs and two palm trees.
Lot's Cave, where the old man was seduced by his two daughters, lies just above the oasis of Safi (Balak or Zoara).
The walled town of Karak appears in the uppermost portion of the map, at the end of vertical Wadi Al-Hasa.
South (far right)
Mt Sinai is recognisable by the multicoloured mountains from which Moses descended with the Ten Command-
ments. Look for fish in the mosaic fingers of the Nile Delta; they swim towards the Mediterranean, only a snippet of
which remains. Almost fragmented from the rest of the Holy Land by damage, but resolutely connected to Egypt
and the Mediterranean Sea, is Gaza. This accident of history gives the map a kind of presentiment that matches its
historical vision.
