Dead Sea Highway - Jordan - page 256

Herodus (Zara) Spring
These hot springs, around 5km south of Amman Beach, have been famous for centuries,
and are even marked on the Madaba mosaic map. Indeed, nearby is the site of ancient
Callirhöe , a favourite spa of the ancients. Herod came here in 4 BC to find treatment for,
according to Josephus, 'an unbearable itching all over his body' - quite possibly psoriasis.
Little remains to be seen at the archaeological site (discovered in 1807) other than rem-
nants of Roman bathhouses and the ancient harbour from which Herod's boats sailed. But
with a bit of imagination, it's easy enough to conjure poor Herod's itching form being led
to the therapeutic hillside.
Despite the popularity of the spot with locals, especially on Friday, it's hard to recom-
mend swimming here either in the hot-spring pools (which are unclean), or at the beach,
which affords no privacy from the road.
The site is adjacent to the police station. Follow the sign for Mukawir and Dhiban up-
hill for 300m and the Callirhöe ruins are on the left. There is no public transport.
A WALK ON THE WET SIDE
If you're in the Wadi Mujib vicinity and fancy a walk on the wild side, then try the 2km Siq Trail , the shortest hike
in the reserve. Late spring and summer are the perfect times for hiking, at least for the reserve's so-called 'wet
trails'. And by wet, they really mean wet, as you have to wade through the wadi's permanent standing pools of wa-
ter. After rains, water height can reach well over 1m and may make the wadi inaccessible.
Leave your valuables behind (you can leave a locked backpack at reception), wrap your camera in a watertight
bag, wear hiking sandals rather than leather hiking boots and brave the surprisingly noisy rush of water.
The Bad Bits
» »Even on a summer morning it gets surprisingly cold wading between the canyon walls
» »Ignore the macho types telling you it's just a 'gentle splash': depending on water levels, it's more like an assault
course
» »There are three or four points where you need a steadying hand to help cross fast-moving water (ask for a guide
if you're on your own)
» »Several giant, slippery boulders or obstructions at best require inelegant scrambling, shunting and stretching, and
at worst invite a dislocated hip or shoulder
» »On the descent, the leap of faith into a deep pool of water takes quite a bit of courage