Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The main archaeological site comprises the remains of three churches, one on top of the
other. Steps lead down to the original water level and a building nearby marks the likely
site of Jesus' baptism . Byzantine churches were built to mark the site during the 5th and
6th centuries, and rebuilt on the same site after they were destroyed by flooding. All that
remains today are traces of original mosaic.
Jordan River
The walking trail passes a golden-roofed Greek Orthodox church and leads, under the
watchful eye of border guards, to the river - little more than a stagnant ditch. It's not very
inviting but you can be baptised in the Jordan if accompanied by a priest. Across the river
(and the border) is a rival Israeli baptism complex. This is the only place where civilians
can currently touch the Jordan River as the remainder runs through a military no-man's-
land.
RIVER
Other Sights
Tours often return via the House of Mary the Egyptian , a 'reformed sinner' who lived
and died in the two-room house in the 4th century. The trail continues left, up some
wooden stairs to a two-room hermit cave burrowed into the soft rock.
The hill behind holds the presumed cave of John the Baptist, a 5th-century monastery
(built around the site) and the Rhotorios Monastery , which has a mosaic floor with
Greek inscriptions. In the 3rd to 4th century, the plaster-lined pools were used by pilgrims
for bathing. In the early years of Christianity, John was a more celebrated figure than Je-
sus and this was the more important of the two pilgrimage sites.
Eating
Bethany Touristic Restaurant$$$
( 079 6076060; fish JD12; 10am-midnight) Attached to a thriving fish farm, this
restaurant specialises in excellent tilapia ( talloubi in Arabic), locally known as Baptism
fish. The fish is fried, or baked with sweet peppers and fresh coriander. It's a popular spot
at weekends, particularly at dusk when the sun sets over distant Jerusalem. Look for signs
along the road halfway between the baptism site and the main Amman-Dead Sea road.
This was the only place to eat near Bethany at the time of writing.
FISH
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