Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE JORDAN VALLEY
When Moses reputedly surveyed the Promised Land from Mt Nebo, surely it wasn't the
semi-arid hills surrounding the Dead Sea that gave hope for the future, but the great green
ribbon of fertility extending from the sea's northern shore towards the distant mountains.
The River Jordan has supported human settlement since antiquity, sustained by the rich soil
that to this day makes farming an obvious pursuit.
Visitors will be struck by the contrast between the olive-growing hillsides and the sub-
tropical Jordan Valley; they will also probably be struck by the heavily policed border with
Israel and the Palestinian Territories which runs along the length of the River Jordan. The
valley has been the site of fight and flight for centuries and is still a sensitive area as dis-
putes about territory give way to concerns over water (
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Despite the frisson of political friction, there is absolutely no danger in visiting the area
and indeed there are many worthwhile sights, from the Roman ruins of Umm Qais in the
north, to the assumed baptism site of Jesus at Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan. The valley it-
self, with commercial farms of bananas, papaya, potatoes, tomatoes and aubergines rubbing
alongside market gardens of locally sold produce, is worth a trip in its own right, especially
when the valley's many flame trees are in full, glorious flower. At sunset, the encasing hills
turn an extraordinary colour of pink and egrets flap across the reed beds, oblivious of the
border. Incidentally, the only place where you can actually see the River Jordan is at Beth-
any, as the demands of irrigation have reduced this once-mighty river to a mere brook, hid-
den between the fields.
There is plenty of public transport plying the valley from village to village. With a car,
however, it is considerably easier to make the side trips from the valley floor (which is at
an altitude well below sea level) to places of interest above sea level, such as the ruins at
Pella or the bustling town of Salt. It takes about an hour and a half to drive the full length
of the valley, with accommodation possible in Umm Qais at the northern end, Pella in the
middle or the Dead Sea in the south. A sample of the valley can also be included in a
roundtrip from Amman and Jerash. Don't forget your passport to show in the numerous po-
lice checkpoints.
