Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Galilee (Lake Tiberias) in present-day Israel and the Palestinian Territories. With its hill-
top position, Qala'at ar-Rabad was one in a chain of beacons and pigeon posts that en-
abled messages to be transmitted from Damascus to Cairo in a single day. The rearing of
pigeons in the area is still a popular pastime.
After the Crusader threat subsided, the castle was largely destroyed by Mongol invaders
in 1260, only to be almost immediately rebuilt by the Mamluks. In the 17th century an Ot-
toman garrison was stationed here, after which it was used by local villagers. The castle
was 'rediscovered' by the well-travelled JL Burckhardt, who also just happened to
stumble across Petra. Earthquakes in 1837 and 1927 badly damaged the castle, though
slow and steady restoration is continuing.
Note that there is a useful explanation in English just inside the main gate, although
nothing else is signposted. However, not much explanation is needed to bring the castle to
life, especially given that the views from these lofty heights are nothing short of spectacu-
lar.
The castle is a tough (3km) uphill walk from the town centre, but minibuses very occa-
sionally go to the top (about 100 fils). Alternatively, take a taxi from Ajloun (JD1 to JD2
each way). A return trip by taxi from Ajloun (JD7 to JD10), with about 30 minutes to look
around, is money well spent. The
visitors centre
and ticket office is about 500m downhill
from the castle entrance; there is a small model of the castle on display here and, perhaps
more usefully, clean toilets.
Mar Elias
( 8am-7pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar)
This little-visited
archaeological site
,
believed to be the birthplace of the prophet Elijah, gives you just the excuse you need to
explore the countryside around Ajloun. To be honest, it's not a spectacular site by any
stretch of the imagination, though it is certainly worth checking out solely for its religious
and historical significance.
Elijah (also known as Elias) is mentioned in both the Quran and the Old Testament, and
is thought to have been born around 910 BC in the village of Lesteb, next to Mar Elias.
The prophet died not far away in Wadi al-Kharrar (
Click here
)
, before supposedly ascend-
ing to heaven on a flaming chariot. During Byzantine times, a pilgrimage site grew up
around Mar Elias under the guidance of the nearby Bishopric of Pella. In 1999 excava-
tions unearthed a church complex dating back to the early 7th century.
From the car park, stairs lead up above the ruins of the earliest church, the apse of
which has a tree growing directly above it. The foundations of the main cross-shaped
church are easy to make out and are decorated with wonderfully fresh floor mosaics. Look
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
