Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
South Theatre
It is a short walk from the temple to the neighbouring South Theatre. Entering through a
wooden door between the arches, there's little to suggest the treasure encased by the plain
exterior. But then suddenly you emerge in the upper seating of the theatre and you can't
help but be impressed. Built between AD 81 and 96 and once housing 5000 spectators
amid two storeys of seating (only one tier of which remains), the theatre is almost perfect.
Sit in Row 30 of the 32 rows of seats (if you can read the Greek numbers) and you'll
see how the elaborately decorated stage is just a foreground for the backdrop of ancient
and modern Jerash. At sunset, the lighting melts the stage surface. Cue music? That's
provided by the visitors who whisper experimental choruses and the members of the Jord-
anian Scottish bagpipe band who, with less subtlety, blast sporadic tunes to the four winds
to illustrate the excellent acoustics.
The theatre comes into its own during the
Jerash Festival of Culture & Arts
(see the
boxed text,
Click here
)
when it proves as worthy a venue today as it was to the ancients
two thousand years ago.
ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE
South Decumanus
If the heat is proving a challenge, or you're experiencing ruin fatigue, descend from the
theatre to the forum and exit the way you entered. It's about a 10-minute walk back to
Hadrian's Gate. If you have energy to spare, keep to the high ground and follow the path
from the theatre towards the Temple of Artemis. On the way, you'll notice a double colon-
nade to your right formed by the South Decumanus, or main east-west access. At the end
of this line of sight is a modern mosque, a fitting reminder of how Jordan has embraced
many different religions over the years and continues to tolerate different forms of wor-
ship to this day.
Tolerance was not always a given, as you'll see if you take the left fork up to what
might be termed 'Church Hill', where a number of churches lie in ruins.
STREET
Church of St Cosmos & St Damianus
When Christianity became the official state religion under Emperor Constantine in AD
324, all Roman monuments that were tainted by so-called pagan practices were quickly
abandoned. These structures were subsequently pilfered for building materials as Roman
cities competed with one another to build glorious churches and cathedrals in the name of
CHURCH
