Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
pensions.' That's why, he argues, the Roman soldiers were the best in the world: 'Get in, get out, stop messing about
- eight minutes of fighting, then fresh men for the next eight minutes of fighting.'
A trundle of soldiers shuffles into formation and slams down gleaming shields; they advance across the arena like
a gleaming, metal-plated, human tank, impervious to the lances of the leather-clad natives - if rather more vulner-
able to the giggles from spectators. 'So Gaius Victor,' I ask after the show. 'What is it that makes such an erudite
fellow like you do a job like this?' 'Call it bread and circuses,' he says. 'That's what kept people happy under the
Romans and I guess that's what keeps us happy today.'
That sounds like a logical enough answer, but then his eyes mist over and he adds: 'You know, there's the mo-
ment in the performance when you say “Salute the troops” and watch them salute you back. To this day, it gives me
a thrill that I can't explain.' Forget the disciplined armies; forget the orderly organisation of labour and provisions -
local people fell under the magic of Rome. As a spare soldier blasts the horn from atop Jerash's triumphal arch, his
scarlet cloak furling behind him and the flag of Jordan blowing in the wind, it's easy to see how.
Jenny Walker
South Gate
From the hippodrome, stroll the 200m to the South Gate, which was most likely construc-
ted in AD 130, and originally served as one of four entrances along the city walls. Along
the way you can see how the Roman city, then as now, spilt over both sides of Wadi Jer-
ash, with most of the residential area lying to the east of the wadi.
The visitor's centre (
Click here
)
is on the right before you reach the gate and this is the
place to hire a guide, or have a drink in the site's only restaurant before entering the city
proper. One square kilometre of the city is encased by the 3m-thick, 3.5km-long boundary
walls.
Don't forget to look up as you pass under the South Gate: like Hadrian's Arch, the
columns bear elaborately carved acanthus-leaf decorations and would once have suppor-
ted three wooden doors. Framed by the archway is the first hint of the splendours ahead -
the columns of the forum start appearing in ever greater profusion as you walk towards
them.
MONUMENTAL GATEWAY
Vaulted Gallery
As tempting as it is to make a beeline for the forum, veer instead into the vaulted passage-
way, under the courtyard of the Temple of Zeus. When your eyes become accustomed to
the gloom, you'll see a superb display of columns, pediments and masonry carved with
grapes, pomegranates and acanthus leaves. This is a good place to swat up on the three
MUSEUM
