Norway in Depth - Norway - page 447

wonder if the modern-minded heir to the throne, Prince Haakon, a direct
descendant of Queen Victoria, even plans to maintain the monarchy.
The crown prince and princess became parents to a daughter on January 21,
2004. Ingrid Alexandra may be the first reigning queen of Norway since 1412.
4 Food & Drink
MEALS & DINING CUSTOMS Most working Norwegians seldom eat
lunch, grabbing a quick open-face sandwich, or smørbrød, at their offices. But
in major towns and cities, lunch is generally served from 1 to 3pm. The mid-
dag, the main meal of the day, is generally eaten between 4:30 and 6pm. Many
restaurants serve this popular middag from 1 to 8pm. In late-closing restaurants,
it's possible to dine much later, until around midnight in Oslo. Long after mid-
dag time a Norwegian family will have aftens, a smørbrød supper that will see
them through the night.
THE CUISINE The chief criticism leveled against Norwegian cooking is that
it's too bland. The food is always abundant (the Norwegians are known for their
second helpings), substantial, and well prepared—but no threat to the French
for a Cordon Bleu prize. Today, instead of their own cuisine, Norwegians often
turn to the Continent or even Asia to satisfy their taste buds. Foreign restau-
rants, especially in such cities as Oslo and Bergen, are all the rage.
Norwegians are proud—and rightly so—of many of their tempting special-
ties, ranging from boiled cod (considered a delicacy) to reindeer steak smothered
in brown gravy and accompanied by tart little lingonberries, which resemble
wild cranberries.
Norway relies on fish, both freshwater and saltwater, for much of its food
supply. Prepared in countless ways, fish is usually well cooked—and always
fresh, a good bet indeed. Try, in particular, the aforementioned boiled cod; it's
always—emphasis on always—served with boiled potatoes.
In early summer, kokt laks (boiled salmon) is a highly rated delicacy. Kreps
(crayfish) is another big production as it is in Finland, and ørret (mountain trout),
preferably broiled and served with fresh lemon, is a guaranteed treat. A recom-
mendation for top-notch fare: fiske-gratin (fish soufflé), delicately seasoned.
Norwegians love their fatty smoked eel (roket al), although many foreigners
have a tendency to whip by this one on the smorgasbord table. The national
appetizer is brine-cured herring with raw onions.
You may want to try reindeer steak or faar-i-kaal, the national dish, a heavily
peppered cabbage-and-mutton stew served with boiled potatoes. A fisher's or a
farmer's favorite is lapskus (hash, to us), prepared with whatever's left over in the
kitchen. The North American palate seems to take kindly to kjøttkaker, the Nor-
wegian hamburger—often pork patties—served with sautéed onions, brown
gravy, and boiled potatoes.
The boiled potato is ubiquitous. Incidentally, the Norwegian prefers it with-
out butter—just a bit of parsley. Nowadays fresh vegetables and crisp salads are
a regular feature of the Norwegian diet as well.
Rumgraut is a sour-cream porridge covered with melted butter, brown sugar,
and cinnamon. If they're in season, try the good-tasting, amber-colored muiter
(cloudberries). An additional treat, well made in Norway, is a pancake accom-
panied by lingonberries.
Frokost (breakfast) is often a whopping koldtbord, the famous cold board, con-
sisting of herring and goat's milk cheese, and such fare as salmon and soft-boiled