The Route to the North Cape - Norway - page 423

For information about the Vaerøy and its craggy appeal, the Vaerøy tourist
office ( & 76-09-52-10 ) is located adjacent to the more modern of the town's
two churches, the white-sided Nykir, in the center of town. It's open only from
mid-June to mid-August, Monday to Saturday 10am to 3pm. About 90% of the
island's population lives at Sørland.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
The hamlet of Sørland lies to the east and south of the mountainous area on the
island. At Nordland there is a large pebble beach, Mollbakken, right by the road
from Sørland. Several burial sites from the Stone Age and also the Viking Age
have been found here.
The mighty bird cliffs of Mount Mostadfjell can be found on the southwest-
erly side, facing the ocean. During the summer, trips to these cliffs are organized
every day. Contact the tourist office (see above) for more information. If you
don't like to join groups, you can explore on your own, as many hiking trails lead
to the bigger of the seabird rookeries. Our favorite jaunt starts at the end of the
route curving along the north of the island 6km (3 3 ⁄ 4 miles) from Sørland. This
is our favorite walk in the remote southern islands because it not only has the
best bird-watching in Norway, it also leads rather eerily over the Isthmus of
Eidet to the almost abandoned fishing village of Mastad, opening onto the
rugged waters of the eastern shore. At one time some 150 inhabitants lived here,
catching puffins as a source of income, then curing the meat in salt. An unusual
puffin dog, called the Mastad Dog, was used to catch the puffins.
Stout-hearted men or women can make the steep climb from Mastad up to
the Måhornet peak, at 435m (1,427 ft.). Allow 1 arduous hour each way.
The only man-made attraction at Vaerøy is the Vaerøy Kirke, a wooden
church with an onion-shaped dome at Nordland. It was taken apart and moved
from the village of Kabelvåg and reassembled at Vaerøy in 1799. This is the old-
est church in Lofoten. The altarpiece, from around 1400, is a late medieval Eng-
lish alabaster relief, depicting the Annunciation, the three Magi or wise men, the
Resurrection, and the Ascension. The church is usually open to visitors in sum-
mer but keeps no regular hours.
WHERE TO STAY
Gamle Prestegård (Old Vicarage) Built in 1898, this used to be
the residence of a Lutheran priest. The hotel is run and owned by the charming
Hege Sørli, who welcomes guests in style. Her rooms have been modernized and
are tastefully and comfortably furnished. Five of the units contain a small bath-
room with shower; guests in the other accommodations share the adequate pub-
lic facilities. Sometimes it's possible to arrange to have dinner here. She doesn't
keep a sign out, but it's the house to the left of the church.
N-8063 Vaerøy. & 76-09-54-11. Fax [phone]. www.prestegaarden.no. 11 units. 640NOK ($91) double
without bathroom; 670NOK ($95) double with bathroom. Rates include breakfast. No credit cards.
Kornelius Kro Built in 1991, this is a series of cabins furnished to a high
standard and offering a snug nest in this remote part of the world. The red-sided
cabins are spacious, like a big hotel suite, and are comfortably inviting with
small bathrooms with showers. In summer it becomes quite festive and, amaz-
ingly, this place keeps going even in the midst of the harshest, darkest nights of
winter. The cozy bar, one of only two bars in town, comes complete with a blaz-
ing fireplace. It is also known for a pair of wood-fired seawater hot tubs, the
scene of the only parties in town. While enjoying the tub, you can be served
drinks from the bar.

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