The Route to the North Cape - Norway - page 422

Walking from Fishing Village to Fishing Village
If time allows, we suggest spending a day exploring some of north Nor-
way's most charming little fishing villages. The landscape is characterized
by sheer mountains and a narrow shoreline. The settlements are no
longer on the western side of the island (the seas were too turbulent).
The rugged inhabitants have moved to the eastern side of the island,
where you can stroll along, taking in the fishing fleets, cargo vessels, and
pleasure crafts. Along the way you'll find simple cafes for eating (fish, of
course, what else?).
Begin in the north at little Hamnøy. In rapid order as you stroll south,
you'll approach Sakrisøy, Reine, Moskenes, Sørvågen, and Å. Of course,
the way to do it, if you have unlimited time, is to rent one of the fisher-
men's huts in one of these villages, settle in for the summer, and write a
novel.
Once at Sørvågen, a 2-hour hike filled with dramatic scenery will lead
you along a signposted and marked rambler's trail. Following along,
you'll reach the Lofoten Tour Association's mountain rambler cabin. At
Sørvågen you can also break up your trip by taking an hour's walk along
beautiful lake Sørvagvannet. To extend the walk, you can take a detour
into the scenic Studalen Valley.
Norway's oldest export commodity. You'll see what happens when cod is hauled
in from the sea, going through the production processes including drying, grad-
ing, and sorting. Admission is 40NOK ($5.70) for adults and 30NOK ($4.25)
for children. From mid-June to mid-August, it is open daily from 11am to 5pm.
In early June it is open Monday to Friday 11am to 4pm.
WHERE TO STAY
Sakrisøy Rorbuer This collection of old-fashioned fishermen's cottages is
the best place to stay on the island, as the other overnight possibilities consist of
camping, caravan sites, hostels, and restored fishing huts. Opening onto the
water, this is a series of genuine ocher-colored cottages that have been comfort-
ably converted for guests. Under stone roofs, the cottages contain modern con-
veniences such as private bathrooms with showers. The buildings date from the
1880s but have been much altered and improved over the years.
Sakrisøy, N-8390 Reine. & 76-09-21-43. Fax [phone]. www.lofotens.ws. 11 cabins. 550NOK-1,150NOK
($78-$163) double. V. Amenities: Laundry. In room: TV, kitchen, no phone.
VAERØY
Remote craggy Vaerøy, along with the even more remote island of Rost, lies to
the far southwest of the Lofoten archipelago and is a bird-watcher's paradise.
Vaerøy's Mount Mostadfjell is the nesting place for more than 1.5 million
seabirds, including sea eagles, auks, puffins, guillemots, kittiwakes, cormorants,
arctic terns, eider petrels, gulls, and others that breed from May to August.
Vaerøy's population is only 775 hearty souls who live on an island of Lil-
liputian fishing villages; white-sand beaches open onto Arctic-chilled waters,
towering ridges, and seabird rookeries.
Ferries from Bodø ( & 76-96-76-00 ) arrive here in 4 1 ⁄ 2 hours, costing
450NOK ($64) for a one-way passage with car. For passengers without a car, it's
114NOK ($16) each way. There is also a ferry link from Moskenes taking less
than 2 hours and costing 160NOK ($23) one-way.