The Route to the North Cape - Norway - page 419

with two to six beds each, each equipped with a private bathroom with shower,
kitchen, and living room. An old klipfish (dried cod) storehouse, the Skjaer-
brygga, has been turned into a good restaurant. There is also a library and
lounge with a fireplace.
N-8340 Stamsund. & 76-05-46-00. Fax [phone] cabins. 1,100NOK-1,270NOK ($156-$180) dou-
ble. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Cafe; restaurant; pub. In room: TV.
Stamsund Lofoten Opened in 1974, this gay-painted hotel in the heart of
town offers a view of the harbor. The small guest rooms are simply furnished but
have good beds, and many have well-kept bathrooms equipped with tub/shower
combinations. On the premises are a bar and a restaurant that serves standard
Norwegian fare.
N-8340 Stamsund. & 76-08-93-00. Fax [phone]. www.stamsund.no. 28 units. 790NOK-1,115NOK
($112-$158) double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar;
lounge; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, minibar, hair dryer.
FLAKSTADØY
Having visited Austvågøy and Vestvagøy, E10 continues west to the next island
of Flakstadøy, with most of the population of 1,600 hearty souls living along the
northern tier, around the town of Ramberg (see below), which makes a good
base for exploring the island.
Flakstadøy is serviced by buses running along the main route via Leknes to
the end of the line, the curiously named hamlet of Å. If you're motoring, you
can take a toll tunnel from Vestvagøy (our last stopover) to Flakstadøy for a cost
of 82NOK ($12) per vehicle.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
If you're touring the island, head for the secluded village of Nusfjord , on the
south coast, a setting for some of the island's most dramatic scenery. Both the
beauty and the bleakness of this remote village have drawn many artists to the
area. The European Conservation List has added this 19th-century fishermen's
village to its list of protected sites.
A favorite walk for us begins 300m (984 ft.) south of the old school in Nus-
fjord. Here you will see a cairned path leading to Nesland, a trek of about 4
hours round-trip. On this walk, you'll go about 200m (656 ft.) before you reach
Østre Nesland, where you'll come across several big potholes near the shore.
You'll also see the only remaining watermill in the Lofotens.
You'll find a colony of fishermen's huts, some still inhabited during the win-
ter season or rented out to visitors in summer.
Rambereg, with its backdrop of snowcapped Arctic peaks, opens onto a beau-
tiful white beach facing the Arctic Ocean. Just outside the village you can visit
Flakstad Kirke at Flakstad ( & 76-09-93-19 ), built of wood in 1780 with a dis-
tinctive onion-shaped cupola. The altarpiece is older than the church, and the
pulpit was painted by Godtfred Ezechiel, a master painter from Bergen. Charg-
ing an admission of 25NOK ($3.55), the church is open in summer daily from
10am to 4pm; otherwise it's only open during church services.
At Flakstad, our favorite walk begins first with a drive out to Fredvang, fol-
lowing the signpost to Yttersand. At this point, you can park your car and walk
for about 30 to 40 minutes along the shore to Mulstøa. Along the way you'll
find an idyllic spot for a picnic.
The old fishing hamlet of Sund lies west of Ramberg along E10. It's visited
mainly by those wishing to see Sund Fiskerimuseum, Sund ( & 76-09-36-29 ),
near the bridge leading to the next island of Moskenesøy. A collection of fishing