Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
has a mellow atmosphere, decorated with old books, antiques, and animal skin
furnishings. You'll feel like you're in the far north if you dine here, especially
when you're served whale carpaccio.
Since many politically conscious readers will object to eating whale meat, an
endangered species, as everyone knows, you can settle for the smoked salmon
instead. Main courses include the island mainstay, cod, served here after a “soft”
baking in the oven. It comes with a white-wine sauce and butter-boiled vegeta-
bles. Meat-eaters prefer the filet of reindeer with sautéed potatoes. In summer
wild berries from these Arctic climes will adorn your plate.
Kong Øysteinsgate 4.
&
76-07-88-00.
Reservations recommended. Main courses 165NOK-210NOK
($23-$30). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Sat 11am-11pm; Sun 2-8pm. Closed Oct 1-May 15.
HENNINGSVAER
The nickname of “Venice of the North” is a bit much, but that shouldn't obscure
the fact that this is the liveliest and most artistic of Lofoten villages. Lying 20km
(13 miles) southwest of Svolvær, this is the largest fishing village in the Lofoten.
The village was built without any professional architects. Bus no. 510 runs here
from Svolvær, taking 35 minutes and costing 40NOK ($5.70) one-way.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
Based in Henningsvaer, the
North Norwegian School of Mountaineering
(Nord Norsk Klatreskole)
(
&
76-07-49-11;
www.nordnorskklatreskole.no)
conducts summer guided tours in the mountains of the Lofotens, following only
the most scenic routes, such as to the top of Svolværgeita Peak. Climbing holi-
days, depending on the trip, cost from 3,500NOK ($497) for a 3-day jaunt. It's
always best to stop by to discuss your desires and have the options explained to
you. Of course, you can call in advance and have a game plan mapped out before
your arrival in town. In Henningsvaer the mountaineering school also operates
a Climber's Café and a store that rents mountaineering gear.
Also in Henningsvaer there are
Sea Eagle Safaris
conducted in summer by
Lofoten Opplevelser (
&
76-07-50-01;
www.lofoten-opplevelser.no/english).
Call for information and details. Nordland is the land of the sea eagle, and in
summer these safaris take you off the coast to see these birds of prey in their nat-
ural environment. Near Henningsvaer is the world's most compact flock of these
majestic birds, which often have a wing span of some 2m (6
1
⁄
2
ft.). Guides
include John Stenersen, author of the book
The Birds of the Lofoten.
From June
20 to August 10, 1-hour safaris cost 300NOK ($43).
At the
Lofoten Hus Gallery
, Hjellskoeret (
&
76-07-15-73
), you can see
Norway's largest collection of its north-country painters, dramatically installed
in a former fish-canning house. The major focus centers on the paintings of the
well-known artist Karl Erik Harr, plus other notable artists who came to the
Lofoten at the end of the 19th century. Frank Jenssen presents a 20-minute slide
show of Lofoten landscapes and its people, with rare photographs of the white-
tailed eagle. It's open June 11 to August 12 10am to 9pm (closes earlier in win-
ter). Admission is 60NOK ($8.50) for adults or 25NOK ($3.55) for children.
WHERE TO STAY
Henningsvaer Bryggehotel
This is a white-painted house idyllically
placed on the quay by the harbor against a backdrop of mountains. Although
the setting is old-fashioned and picture-postcardy, the interior design is con-
temporary and stylish. In all, it's a good choice as your base for exploring the
northern Lofoten. Built in 1995, it rises three floors. For decor, it uses pictures
of the Lofoten from the 1900s. Bedrooms are midsize and attractively and
