The Route to the North Cape - Norway - page 413

wood, opening onto your private harbor-view terrace. Some guests fish right
from their own quarters from these decks. Each is comfortably furnished, con-
taining immaculate private bathrooms with shower. Norwegian specialties, espe-
cially salmon, are served in the first-class restaurant on-site. The restaurant is
constructed in the shape of a boat, opening onto panoramic vistas of the ocean.
Lamholmen, N-8301 Svolvær. & 76-07-22-22. Fax [phone]. www.rica.no. 147 units. Sun-Thurs
1,257NOK-1,358NOK ($178-$193) double; Fri-Sat 1,040NOK-1,055NOK ($148-$150) double. Rates include
continental breakfast and evening buffet. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Dec 20-Jan 3. Amenities: Restaurant; bar;
laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility. In room: TV.
Svinøya Rorbuer Nothing is as authentic to the Lofoten experi-
ence as staying in one of these cottages across a bridge on the island of Svinøya,
site of Svolvær's first settlement. You'll be welcomed at the reception area, which
was once the general store for the community and was the first shop ever to open
in Svolvær. Then you'll be shown to one of the historic, restored cabins. The
main building is from 1820, some of the cabins are from the 19th century, and
others are modern but constructed in the old style. All of these fishermen's cab-
ins are furnished to a high standard, and each is equipped with a small bathroom
with shower. Extra amenities include a well-equipped kitchen. The inn contains
the town's best restaurant, the Børson Spiseri (see below).
Gunnar Bergs vei 2, N-8300 Svolvær. & 76-06-99-30. Fax [phone]. www.svinoya.no. 30 cabins.
1,250NOK-2,500NOK ($178-$355) double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; Jacuzzi; laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: Kitchen, no phone.
WHERE TO DINE
Børson Spiseri SEAFOOD The town's best restaurant is housed in the
previously recommended Svinøya Rorbuer (see above) across a bridge on the
island of Svinøya. We'd come here for the atmosphere alone, but fortunately the
food is first-rate. The restaurant has been installed in an old quay-side building
from 1828, a setting for an “arctic menu” that features some of the freshest fish
we've ever consumed in the north. The setting is old-fashioned with antiques
from 2 centuries ago, along with maritime artifacts such as fishing equipment
and old boats. What chef can top their deep-fried cod tongue served as an appe-
tizer with sour cream and a salad? The traditional dried cod for which the
Lofoten is famous is served with bacon and potatoes. Other excellent dishes are
the rockfish in a white-wine sauce with potatoes and fresh vegetables, the roasted
Lofoten lamb filet with creamy potatoes, and the filet of pork with Parma ham.
In summer you can opt for fresh fruit for dessert, or feast on crème brûlée the
rest of the time.
Gunnar Bergs vei 2. & 76-06-99-30. Reservations recommended. Main courses 215NOK-250NOK
($31-$36). AE, DC, MC. Daily 5-10pm. Closed Mon in winter and also Jan.
KABELVÅG
Much more romantically situated than Svolvær is the port of Kabelvåg, lying
5km (3 miles) to the south. This is also a much better introduction to the
quaintness of the Lofotens than Svolvær. The port of wooden buildings encircles
the shore of a narrow inlet. In its heyday it was the major village in the Viking
era, a position it maintained until the early years of the 20th century. The first
rorbuer (fishermen's cottages) were erected here in 1120.
One of the best walks in the area, giving you a flavor of the Lofotens, is the
road between Svolvær and Kabelvåg. You go from the hustle and bustle of
Svolvær, without all that much charm, to a little center of wooden houses hug-
ging the shore of a knobby inlet. Along the way you're treated to seascapes of a

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