Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SVOLVÆR
This bustling modern port town lies on the island of Austvågøy, the northern-
most in the archipelago. Most of the Lofoten cultural attractions are within an
easy reach if you decide to base here. Svolvær attracts the most visitors and has
some of the area's best hotels and restaurants, but it is somewhat of a glorified
refueling stop. The most adventurous readers will view it merely as a place to
pass through and stock up on supplies before heading out to some more remote
destination.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
Lofoten Krigsminnemuseum, Fiskergata 12 ( & 91-73-03-28 ), is the finest
museum in the north devoted to the tragic World War II era. There's a little-
known collection of 1940s photographs, some of which document the 1941
commando raid on the islands. Also on display is a collection of military uni-
forms. Admission is 40NOK ($5.70) for adults and 20NOK ($2.85) for chil-
dren. It's open mid-May to mid-August daily from 11am to 4pm. The rest of
the year it's open daily from 6 to 10pm.
Daredevils are lured to Svolvær in an attempt to conquer the most daring
(and dangerous) climb in the Lofotens. They surmount the Svolværgeita
(Svolværur goat), at 40m (131 ft.). This stone column is perched on a hill
behind the port, and is known for its two pinnacles, which locals have labeled
the horn or the horns of a goat. There's a 1.5m (5-ft.) jump between the two
“horns”; if you don't make it, you're as good as dead.
One of the most dramatic boat rides in the Lofotens is the short trip into the
impossibly narrow Trollfjord , stretching for 2km (1 1 4 miles). This is part of
the channel that separates the Lofoten island of Austvågøy from the Vesterålen
island of Hinnøya. Coastal steamers can barely navigate this narrow passage with-
out scraping the rock walls on either side. One of the most visited sites in the
Lofotens, this fjord cuts its way westward from the Straits of Raftsundet, open-
ing onto an idyllic Lofoten landscape, famed as the subject of many paintings.
Trollfjord is the easternmost island in Lofoten, and was the scene of the “Bat-
tle of the Trollfjord,” as related by Johan Bojer in his novel The Last Viking. The
battle, which took place more than a century ago between fishermen in small
vessels and those in larger steamships, was first recorded on canvas by one of its
witnesses, the artist Gunnar Berg (1863-93). His painting is on view at the
Svolvær Town Hall. Ask at the tourist office (see “Visitor Information,” above)
about linking up with a boat tour of Trollfjord. Departures are from June 10 to
August 20, costing 300NOK ($43) per person.
For the best and most scenic walks in the area, take the ferry ride over to the
islet of Skrova. Here, you can stroll around and leisurely take in the seascapes.
Before heading over, take the makings of a picnic at one of the shops in Svolvær
and enjoy it in splendid isolation. Ferries leave from Svolvær port every 2 hours,
taking only half an hour to reach Skrova and costing 30NOK ($4.25) per person.
Another good walk from Svolvær is to the north, heading to the Lille and Store
Kongsvatn Lakes, on whose banks you might want to have a picnic. You will
know you've reached the end of the trail when you come to a power station. If
you wish, you can take a path to Kabelvåg (p. 415) following the shoreline for
most of the way. Or you can return to Svolvær on the same trail you came up on.
SHOPPING
Artists have long been drawn to the archipelago because of the particular qual-
ity of its northern lights. The leading gallery is Nordnorsk Kunstnersentrum
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