Trondheim - Norway - page 351

are stuffed with mussels). For real Norwegian flavor, opt for the top side of stag,
with fresh mushrooms, creamed vegetables, and—just the right touch—red
whortleberry chutney. This year we also enjoyed the loin filets of veal stuffed
with Parma ham and fresh sage, served with pickled tomatoes, mashed Fondant
potatoes, and artichokes. For dessert, try a specialty rarely found outside Scan-
dinavia: warm cloudberries from the Arctic tundra, served in this case with
hazelnut ice cream.
In the Britannia Hotel, Dronningens Gate 5. & 73-53-53-53. Reservations recommended. Lunch sandwich-
and-salad buffet 215NOK ($31); fixed-price 3-course dinner 465NOK ($66); dinner main courses
235NOK-280NOK ($33-$40). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am-2pm and 6-11pm. Bus: 2, 5, 6, 7, or 9.
Prins Olavs Grill CONTINENTAL Set on the lobby level of the also-rec-
ommended hotel (earlier in this chapter), this restaurant is named after a once-
majestic sailing ship, the Alexandra, which was commissioned early in the 20th
century by the British Navy. It was purchased (and renamed the Prins Olav ) by
the Norwegian navy in the 1930s, and then sunk by the Nazi air force in 1940.
Today some of the ship's gilded architectural fretworks and embellishments, as
well as a photographic history of the vessel, decorate the walls of a room that's
noteworthy for its sense of comfort and well-being. Dishes that emerge from the
busy, open-to-view kitchen include such appetizing starters as a crayfish
tortellini swimming in a zesty tomato bouillon or a monkfish kabob with crème
fraîche set off tantalizingly with a taste of mint. Some of the recipes are satisfy-
ingly familiar, including the pan-fried steak of salmon in an herb oil, or the
oven-baked turbot dressed up with an orange fennel salad and shellfish sauce.
The chefs reach out to the globe for inspiration when they take a tuna fish,
smoke it with chile peppers, and serve it with baked sweet potato, sour banana
salsa, and a lime beurre blanc. If you opt for a meat course, you can hardly do
better than the leg of pheasant fricassee with Jerusalem artichokes, everything
coming with a lemon confit. Trondheimers take delight in the chef 's grilled filet
of beef and tongue with creamy summer cabbage, soya gravy, and a deep-fried
chile pasta. For dessert, nothing beats the chocolate cake with Irish coffee
accompanied with strawberry “slush” and mocha caramel.
In the Radisson SAS Royal Garden Hotel, Kjøpmannsgata 73. & 73-80-30-00. Reservations recommended.
Main courses 180NOK-265NOK ($26-$38); fixed-price 5-course menus 465NOK-560NOK ($66-$80). AE,
DC, MC, V. Daily 5-11pm. Closed July. Bus: 1 or 4.
MODERATE
Kvilhaugen Gärd (Rest Hill Farm) NORWEGIAN Surrounded by
the trees and lawns of a prosperous residential suburb, about 4km (2 1 ⁄ 2 miles) east
of Trondheim's commercial core, this charming and historic restaurant, conven-
tion center, and pub is contained in what used to be the barn of an important
manor from the early 19th century. The focal point of the compound is a white-
painted wooden manor house, whose battered interior is opened only for large
groups and corporate conventions. The most convivial part of the compound
today, however, is the red-sided barn (fjøset), originally built around 1820, which
still retains signs indicating to diners and drinkers which area of the interior used
to be reserved for cows, sheep, and pigs. Be careful not to bump your head
against the massive antique ceiling beams as you enjoy either mid afternoon
snacks or full meals that might include melon with Parma ham; creamy fish
soup; chicken salad; baked trout, arctic char, turbot, or salmon; and roasted filets
of beef or reindeer. The food is good, wholesome, regional fare, made with well-
chosen ingredients and cooked with local flavor. In midsummer large areas of

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