The West Coast Fjord Country - Norway - page 297

Flowing in a northeasterly direction, the fjord stretches out for 179km (111
miles). Along the western coast of Norway, the fjord is broad and open but when
its “fingers” dig inland into several branches, it often becomes very narrow. The
banks of the fjord are a delight in spring. You'll view not only wildflowers but
also lots of blossoming fruit trees along its sloping banks.
The waterfalls along both banks are stunning, and are reason enough to
explore the fjord. When the snows melt in the early spring, the waterfalls that
rush down the mountains are at their most powerful.
Motorists can drive along the fjord, taking in its vast panorama. From Skånevik,
a small ferry port at the head of Skånevikfjord (a branch of the Hardangerfjord),
routes 48, 11, 13, and 7 run for 193km (119 miles) all the way to Northelmsund,
the main center of the north side of Hardangerfjord. This road also bypasses
Lofthus, as well as Odda, the principal settlement along Hardangerfjord.
You will also be able to take in views of Folgefonna , Norway's third-
largest glacier. It stretches for 37km (22 miles). At its widest point, it measures
16km (10 miles).
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Ullensvang Built in 1846 and last renovated in 2002, with
minor refurbishments since then, this romantic inn lies on the edge of the
Hardangerfjord. The hotel was a favorite retreat of Edvard Grieg, who came here
for the first time in 1878 and returned to spend many a summer, finding inspi-
ration for his music, such as “Springtime,” “The Hoberg Suite,” and the “Peer
Gynt Suite.” His piano is still kept in a cottage on the grounds.
Now a beautifully equipped structure with a garden opening onto the shore-
line and with views of the Folgefonna glacier, the hotel has been run by the Utne
family for four generations. It offers rooms ranging from standard to deluxe. All
are handsomely furnished and come with well-maintained private bathrooms
with tub/shower combinations. Scandinavian kings, Emperor Wilhelm II, and
European nobility have patronized the hotel. Tours of the surrounding area,
including the best beauty spots along Hardangerfjord, can be arranged with
local guides, recommended by the hotel. The quality on-site restaurant is
reviewed separately below.
N-578 Loftus i Hardanger. & 53-67-00-00. Fax [phone]. www.hotel-ullensvang.no. 157 units.
798NOK-998NOK ($113-$142) double; 1,350NOK-1,650NOK ($192-$234) suite. Rates include breakfast
and dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Dec 22-30. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; heated indoor pool; tennis court;
squash court; gym; spa; sauna; rowboats for fjord cruises; sailboats; game room; salon; 24-hr. room service;
laundry service; solarium; nonsmoking rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility. In room: TV, minibar.
Ullensvang Gjesteheim This is a cozy, homelike guesthouse in the
town center, run with a personal touch. Bedrooms are comfortably furnished, if
a bit old-fashioned, and bathrooms in the corridors are shared and most ade-
quate for the job. The dining room serves a Norwegian koldbord (cold board) for
breakfast, and also dishes up home-cooked Norwegian specialties at lunch and
dinner, including such dishes as filet of reindeer. Lunch and dinner menus range
from 95NOK to 165NOK ($13-$23) for a main course.
N-5774 Lofthus i Hardanger. & 53-66-12-36. Fax [phone] units, none with bathroom. 650NOK
($92) double. Children under 5 stay free in parent's room. Rates include continental breakfast. MC, V. Closed
Dec 23-Jan 1. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: No phone.
WHERE TO DINE
Restaurant Ullensvang NORWEGIAN Some of the best fjord-
country dining is found at this old inn (see “Where to Stay,” above). Such

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