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distinctive, with some of the most elaborate carved masonry, along the quays.
True to its origins as the city's Kjøttbasaren (meat market), the upstairs of the
building contains a half-dozen boutique-style butcher shops and fishmongers.
During a 20th-century restoration, archaeologists discovered the rotted keel of a
14th-century wooden ship beneath its foundations. Today the building's ground
floor contains a restaurant that's either appealing in its coziness and historicity
or daunting because of its ever-present mobs. We find the layout a bit off-put-
ting, with banquettes stuck into blind corners, lots of columns blocking the
sightlines, and streams of pedestrian traffic that create an atmosphere that's akin
to a busy railway station. Menu items include grilled meats and poultry, fresh
fish, soups, salads, and pastas, all served in generous portions by a staff that often
seems more than a bit harassed. Some food items have just a hint of American-
ized flair, especially a “party platter” that's piled high with nachos, chicken fin-
gers, and onion rings. There's also a bacon-wrapped tenderloin of beef and
Cajun-blackened chicken cutlets. Even if it isn't at first glance particularly sooth-
ing, this restaurant is unfailingly popular.
Vetrlidsalmenning 2. & 55-55-22-00. Reservations recommended. Main courses 159NOK-209NOK
($23-$30). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am-midnight. Bus: 5 or 21.
Escalón Tapas Restaurant SPANISH Set immediately adjacent to
the lowest stage of the Fløibanen cable car, this is a charming, convivial, and
unpretentious bar and tapas joint that has consistently won awards as one of the
best restaurants of its type in Bergen. The setting lies a few steps down from
street level, allowing diners a pavement-level view out over the neighborhood
outside, or, if they progress into the back of the place, a cavelike interior that's
cozy, warm, and dotted with mostly Iberian paintings. The staff here recom-
mends that two or—more often—three tapas platters comprise a full meal,
depending on your hunger level. The best examples include grilled mushrooms
filled with Manchego cheese, Spanish-style potato omelets, tuna marinated in
olive oil and capers, Madrid-style calamari, chicken cutlets cooked in sherry, and
shellfish crepes. As you'd expect, a wide assortment of Spanish wines, as well as
hard liquor from around the world, is also available.
Vertrlidsalmenningen 21. & 55-32-90-99. Reservations not accepted. Tapas 40NOK-98NOK ($5.70-$14);
set-price meal consisting of 3 separate tapas dishes 179NOK ($25). AE, DC, MC, V. Sun-Fri 3pm-1am; Sat
noon-1am. Bus: 5 or 21.
Holberg-Stuen NORWEGIAN One floor above street level, this restaurant
was established in 1927 midway between the harborfront and Ole Bulls Plass. It
was named in honor of the 18th-century writer Ludvig Holberg. He divided his
time between Bergen and Copenhagen, and both cities ferociously claim him as
part of their cultural heritage. The setting is much like a tavern, with beamed
ceilings, an open log fire, and lots of exposed wood. The well-prepared dishes
include fish filets in white-wine sauce with prawns, mushrooms, and asparagus;
and a variety of meats, some of them grilled. This is a longtime favorite; come
here for old-fashioned flavors, not trendy experiments.
Torgalmenningen 6. & 55-55-20-55. Reservations recommended. Main courses 188NOK-209NOK
($27-$30). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Sat 11am-11pm; Sun 2-10pm. Bus: 1, 5, or 9.
Mago FRENCH/ITALIAN/NORTHERN SPAIN Mago (which translates
from Italian as “magician”) features classy and innovative Continental cuisine
that's served within a hyperminimalist setting of high-arched windows, brushed
steel, Italian oak paneling, and glass. Early in 2004 it dropped an earlier, much-
publicized venue of serving only organic food, settling instead into what fans
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