Southern Norway - Norway - page 222

Susannah's Restaurant NORWEGIAN A lively spot for dining,
this restaurant is filled with the same bounty of trees and flowers that adorns the
greenhouse lobby of the Rica Ibsen Hotel (p. 223), which houses the restaurant.
Located in the center of Skien almost half a kilometer (about 1 ⁄ 4 mile) from the
train station, it's a big-windowed restaurant used by local residents as a dining
venue for special occasions. Chefs take infinite pains to turn out flavorful dishes
based whenever possible on local products. Fresh fish and Norwegian lamb and
beef are their forte. Our party has particularly enjoyed the pan-fried beef Susan-
nah with wild mushrooms, steamed broccoli, and boiled potatoes in a well-
flavored mushroom gravy. Desserts, made fresh daily, are quite luscious.
Kongensgate 33. & 35-90-47-00. Reservations recommended. Main courses 186NOK-228NOK ($26-$32).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Sat 11am-11pm.
EASY EXCURSIONS: THE TELEMARK CANAL
Skien is the gateway to the Telemark Canal, which was completed in 1892. Five
hundred men labored for 5 years on this canal, blasting their way through
mountains. Today it contains a total of 28 lock chambers, and the route runs
from Skien in the east to the ancient Norwegian town of Dalen in the west. The
canal affords a sailing route of 105km (65 miles) with an elevation difference of
72m (236 ft.).
At the turn of the 20th century, the canal became known as the “fast route”
between eastern and western Norway. Nostalgic canal boats, the MS Victoria,
the MS Henrik Ibsen, and the MS Telemarken, will take you from Skien to
Dalen, a 10-hour trip on this historic waterway, costing around 625NOK ($89)
round-trip. Although not the equivalent of the Panama Canal, we highly rec-
ommend this trip. It's a comfortable, easy way to penetrate some of the lakes and
rivers of inland Norway. As you sail along, you'll pass farmland so neat it appears
landscaped, and a countryside dotted with scenic summer homes (often owned
by residents of Oslo) and churches. Along the way you'll also encounter
panoramic vistas in many directions, with views of deep, dark forests, which
some Norwegians claim are still inhabited by trolls. Swift-flowing streams add
to the landscape drama, as do forested hillsides and deep valleys, some of which
draw skiers in winter. The engineer in you may also be fascinated by viewing the
original stone walls of the canal, as well as the closing mechanisms.
For information and bookings, contact Telemarkreister, Handelstorget
( & 35-90-00-30 or 35-90-00-20) in Skien.
WHERE TO STAY & DINE IN DALEN
Dalen Hotel Set at the terminus of the Telemark Canal, with dragon
heads and Viking-inspired gingerbread dripping from its eaves, this historic
hotel has some similarities with Norway's medieval stave churches. This hotel is
often cited as a fine example of the Norwegian nationalist style. Built in 1894
during the birth of modern tourism, it was a lodging for prominent guests inter-
ested in seeing the natural beauty of a region that had just opened thanks to the
completion of the Telemark Canal. It has welcomed King Leopold II of
Belgium, the king of Siam, and at least two of Norway's late-19th- and 20th-
century kings. Today, thanks to almost 20 years of ongoing renovations, its
ocher-and-brown, mostly wood premises still evoke the fantasy and whimsy of
the late Victorian age. It is graced with symmetrical towers, soaring turrets, wide
verandas, high ceilings, and bright colors. Don't expect a trend-conscious group
of clients here, or a sense that you're in a place that's on the cutting edge of

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