Southern Norway - Norway - page 214

GETTING THERE Chances are you might arrive from Frederikshavn in
Denmark, since the Color Line ( & 33-12-28-10; www.colorline.com) offers
service between the two cities. The line runs one or two daily ferries, taking 6
hours, 15 minutes. Trains, often 20 a day, pull in from Oslo and arrive at
the terminus on Storgata, also the site of the bus station. The trip takes 2 hours
and costs 210NOK ($30) one-way. If you set out heading south from Oslo
along E18, you should pull into Larvik some 2 hours later. Visit www.nsb.no for
information.
VISITOR INFORMATION For information, go to the Larvik Tourist
Office, Storgata 48 ( & 21-06-20-02; www.visitlarvik.no), opposite the ferry
terminal. It's open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 4pm.
GETTING AROUND Do as many of the locals do in summer and rent a
bike from the tourist office (see “Visitor Information,” above). The Vestfold dis-
trict is riddled with well-mapped-out trails for biking, stretching from one end
of the province to the other end. Before setting out, purchase the map Sykkelkart
Vestfold, available for 90NOK ($12) from the tourist office.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
The major attraction is the Larvik Museum ( & 33-15-65-40 ), which is a
three-in-one cultural attraction. The imposing Herregården Manor House,
Herregården 6, was built between 1674 and 1677 as the home of Ulrik Frederik
Gyldenløve, the Norwegian governor general. As the illegitimate son of King
Fredrik IV of Denmark, he became the duke of Larvik and was shipped off to
Norway to escape the intrigue of the Danish court. The baroque timber house
is filled with 17th- and 18th-century antiques.
Larvik Sjøfartsmuseum (Maritime Museum), Kirkestredet 5, is housed in
Larvik's oldest brick building from 1730. On the idyllic little island of Tollerod-
den, this museum displays models of ships, paintings of sailing vessels, and other
nautical artifacts to bring the port's maritime history alive. One section of the
museum is devoted to the daring exploits of Larvik-born Thor Heyerdahl.
Finally, the Fritzøe Museum on Langestrand Island displays tools, equip-
ment, drawings, and models illustrating the iron-production era in Larvik from
1670 to 1870.
All three museums charge a combined ticket of 40NOK ($5.70) for adults or
10NOK ($1.40) for children under 16.
If time remains, consider a visit to Larvik Kirke, Kirkestredet ( & 33-17-
30-00 ), which is the port's Trinity Church. Commissioned in 1677, it was fin-
ished in 1763 when a tower was added. Inside its chief treasure is Suffer the
Little Children to Come Unto Me, an altarpiece painting by Lucas Cranagh that
was commissioned by Duke Gyldenløve. A monument outside was the creation
of Arne Vigeland, who was commissioned to erect a memorial to Norwegians
who died in World War II. Admission is free, and the church is open June 25 to
August 10 daily from 11am to 1pm and 6 to 8pm.
WHERE TO STAY
Gyldenløve Hotel This is the traditional, and still the best, hotel choice for
the area. Built 200 years ago, it was last renovated in 2002. The public lounges
and bedrooms, however, still retain an old-fashioned aura. There is style and
grace here, and the prices are very reasonable for this part of the country. Each
good-size bedroom is tastefully furnished, although not all units come with a
private bathroom. The corridor facilities are adequate, however. The bistro and
piano bar on-site make this the liveliest venue in Larvik.