Settling into Oslo - Norway - page 107

Holmenkollveien 200. & 22-92-40-40. Reservations recommended. Cafe platters 75NOK-110NOK
($11-$16). Restaurant main courses 235NOK-295NOK ($33-$42); fixed-price menus 455NOK-625NOK
($65-$89). DC, MC, V. Restaurant Mon-Sat noon-10pm; Sun noon-9pm. Cafe Mon-Sat noon-10pm; Sun
noon-9pm. Tram: 1.
MODERATE
Holmenkollen Restaurant NORWEGIAN/CONTINENTAL Partially
built from logs and local stone and perched near the summit of a hill outside
Oslo, close to the city's world-renowned ski jump, this restaurant evokes a
mountain chalet. This restaurant, built in the 1930s, is a frequent target for bus
tours whose participants are hauled up to admire the high-altitude view over
Oslo and to get a good meal. Frankly, the place would be more appealing with-
out the constant crush of diners, many of whom arrive en masse aboard buses,
an oft-repeated phenomenon that drives the staff into near-frenzies of distrac-
tion. But when it isn't too crowded, usually at nighttime, with fires blazing softly
in the massive stone fireplaces, it's a great deal more charming. Main courses in
the self-service restaurant include rib-sticking fare that's substantial and unpre-
tentious, such as platters of roast meats or fish, but also salads and pastas. Meals
in the upstairs dining room might begin with a Caesar salad with herb-roasted
chicken and a Parmesan crust or a chilled gazpacho served with pan-fried
shrimp. On our most recent visit, our party took delight in the pan-fried trout
served with spring-fresh asparagus and a chive sauce and the roasted filet of veal
with baby summer vegetables in a wine sauce. Steamed halibut was another
delectable treat, with leeks, fresh dill, and a butter sauce.
Holmenkollveien 119. & 22-13-92-00. Reservations recommended. Main courses in restaurant
198NOK-278NOK ($28-$39). Platters in the self-service restaurant 60NOK-278NOK ($8.50-$39). AE, DC,
MC, V. Cafeteria daily 11:30am-4pm. Restaurant Mon-Sat 4-9pm; Sun 4-7pm. Tram: 1.
GRÜNERLØKKA
MODERATE
Coma NORWEGIAN/HAITIAN/FRENCH Proudly aware of its role as a
counterculture gathering point for the slightly crazed, slightly disorganized intel-
ligentsia of Oslo, this is the most upscale of the bars and restaurants in the Grün-
erløkka district. Its design is postmodern and glossy. You'll get hints of Los
Angeles-inspired laidback-ness, mingled with just a hint of Edvard Munch. A
quick dialogue with a staff member will help adjust you to this restaurant's
unusual blend of Norwegian New Age thinking. The menu is forever changing
and based on seasonal ingredients. On our last visit we were drawn to the duck
breast with shiitake mushrooms, which was served with kumquats and a sweet-
and-sour bean sauce, along with a side dish of tasty hash-brown potatoes. You
can, of course, visit just for a drink to absorb the atmosphere. The bar is long
and wide, and lots of locals park here for hours after the crush of the evening
meal is over.
Helgesensgate 16. & 22-35-32-22. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses 82NOK-98NOK
($12-$14); dinner main courses 198NOK-214NOK ($28-$30). AE, DC, MC, V. Sun-Thurs noon-midnight;
Fri-Sat noon-1am. Tram: 11, 12, 30, or 56.
Markveien Mat og Vinhus NORWEGIAN/FRENCH/ITALIAN
In the heart of the increasingly trendy Grünerløkka area, this restaurant evokes
the Oslovian version of the Left Bank bohemian life. The walls are covered with
the art of a local painter, Jo Stang, and the waiters welcome diners—in their
terms—as “we would in our own home.” This is an excellent choice for dining

Finds