Settling into Oslo - Norway - page 104

Hotel Bygdøy (with which it is not directly associated), it's outfitted in a post-
modern, punk-conscious style that might have been inspired by a hip-hop club
in London or New York's SoHo. Expect lots of space, a postindustrial decor of
vinyl/Leatherette sofas and banquettes, pillbox-shaped stools, splashy pop art,
and the superb cuisine of Norway's chef-of-the-minute, Ms. Sonja Lee. Born of
Korean and Norwegian parents and one of the most successful culinary entre-
preneurs in Norway, she studied in Paris, Monaco, and southern France. Even
better, she has assembled a team of hip, young assistants who seem to work beau-
tifully together in the hypermodern kitchens, which, incidentally, are available
for visits from any diner who's interested in a tour. Ingredients that go into these
dishes are pure and perfect, and are usually based on flavors of the faraway
Mediterranean. Try the braised rabbit with tomatoes and olives; homemade ravi-
oli studded with ricotta and Norwegian wild mushrooms; and (direct from the
Ducasse kitchens) spit-roasted veal with a gratin of macaroni and veal jus, a real
masterpiece.
Bygdøy Allé 53. & 23-08-58-10. Reservations required. Main courses 180NOK-230NOK ($26-$33); fixed-
price menus: 550NOK ($78) for 5 courses, 600NOK ($85) for 6 courses, 750NOK ($107) for 7 courses, 850NOK
($121) for 8 courses, 950NOK ($135) for 10 courses; tasting menu 950NOK-1,200NOK ($135-$170) for
10-13 courses. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am-2pm; Mon-Sat 5:30-9:30pm. Tram: 10, 12, or 15.
MODERATE
Hos Thea SCANDINAVIAN/SPANISH This stylish, well-managed restau-
rant attracts a loyal crowd of people active in the media and the arts. The wait-
staff and chefs share duties, so the person who prepares your meal is likely to
carry it to your table as well. Depending on the staff 's mood and the season, the
superbly prepared menu items might include medallions of veal served with
beurre blanc and carrots, breast of duck with red-wine sauce, whitefish filets
with saffron sauce, and venison with a sauce of mixed Nordic berries. The cen-
tury-old building, once a private home, is in a West End neighborhood 3km
(about 2 miles) south of Oslo's commercial center.
Gabelsgate 11 (entrance on Drammensveien). & 22-44-68-74. Reservations recommended. Main courses
100NOK-225NOK ($14-$32). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 4:30-11pm. Tram: 10 or 13.
Village Tandoori INDIAN We spent a lot of time admiring the weavings,
paintings, chastened brass, and woodcarvings that adorn the walls of this restau-
rant, a network of dark rooms that evoke an antique house in the Punjab or
Rajasthan regions of India. Food is flavorful, exotic, and extremely good, with a
wide choice that includes lamb tikki marinated in yogurt and spices; marinated
prawns with paprika or garlic; a Village mixed grill (with prawns, chicken, and
lamb); Lahore-style lamb marinated in chile; and spicy Punjabi chicken.
Bygdøy Allee 65. & 22-56-10-25. Reservations recommended only Fri-Sat nights. Main courses
165NOK-235NOK ($23-$33). AE, DC, MC, V. June-Aug daily 5-11pm; Sept-May daily 3-11pm. Tram: 10, 12,
or 15.
BYGDØY
EXPENSIVE
Lanternen CONTINENTAL Set close to the arrivals point for the
Bygdøy ferry from the quays near Town Hall, within a low-slung white-painted
clapboard-covered house from the 19th century, this restaurant is charming,
welcoming, and sophisticated. From the windows of its woodsy, modern inte-
rior, you'll see about 1,000 privately owned sailboats and motor craft bobbing
in the nearby marina, giving the entire venue a distinctly nautical appeal.