Settling into Oslo - Norway - page 95

mango-and-chive chutney; and entrecôte of pork with red-wine bouillon sauce,
oyster mushrooms, potato purée, and Norwegian-style glazed apples.
Universitesgata 11. & 22-36-07-11. Reservations recommended. Set-price menus 315NOK ($45) for 3
courses, 420NOK ($60) for 4 courses. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues-Sat 6-11pm (last seating). T-banen: Tullenløkka.
Closed 1 week at Easter, 1 week at Christmas, and 4 weeks in midsummer.
MODERATE
Bristol Grill CONTINENTAL This is the premier dining room of the
Hotel Bristol (p. 85), one of Oslo's most prestigious hotels. You'll find old-
world courtliness, formal service without a lot of flash or frenzy, and elegant
decor that evokes a baronial hunting lodge, from around 1924, the year the
restaurant was founded. At that time, it was an all-male smoking, drinking, and
dining club. A few years later, it evolved into the dining venue you'll see today,
with an allure that eventually welcomed such entertainers as Sonja Henie,
Josephine Baker, Eartha Kitt, Frank Sinatra, and Sophia Loren. You'll pass
through a cozy, woodsy-looking piano bar to reach the restaurant. In 2002 the
culinary focus of this restaurant was radically improved, and the menu contin-
ues to be one of the finest in the Norwegian capital. There's a spectacular ver-
sion of bouillabaisse, prepared with Nordic (not Mediterranean) fish and
seasoned with saffron, which can be ordered as either a starter or a main course.
We followed this with one of the chef 's most successful specialties: medallions
of venison sautéed with vanilla and bacon, served on a bed of mushrooms with
a terrine of potatoes.
In the Hotel Bristol, Kristian IV's Gate 7. & 22-82-60-00. Reservations recommended. Main courses
210NOK-285NOK ($30-$40). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5-11pm. Tram: 10, 11, 17, or 18.
Grand Café NORWEGIAN This traditional cafe is an Oslo legend, in
business since 1874. A large mural on one wall depicts Ibsen and Edvard
Munch, along with other, less famous, former patrons. Pick up a postcard, sold
at the reception desk, if you care to find out more about the mural's subjects
(who would've guessed that Ibsen was a fan of whale steaks?). The atmosphere
and tradition here are sometimes more compelling than the cuisine, but if you
like solid, honest flavors, this is the place to eat. The menu relies on Norwegian
country traditions (how many places still serve elk stew?). You can also order
everything from a napoleon with coffee to a full meal with fried stingray or rein-
deer steaks. Sandwiches are available for 89NOK ($13) and up.
In the Grand Hotel, Karl Johans Gate 31. & 24-14-53-00. Reservations recommended. Main courses
145NOK-280NOK ($21-$40). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Sat 11am-11pm; Sun noon-11pm. T-banen: Stortinget.
La Sangria SPANISH Established in 1992 in a location across the
street from the Radisson SAS Scandinavia Hotel (p. 86), within a dining room
sheathed with roughly textured stucco and hand-painted Iberian porcelain, this
is one of the best Spanish restaurants in Oslo. It was established by two hard-
working brothers (Fernando and Juan-Carlos) from Madrid, whose appreciation
for both bullfighting and soccer, especially the Real Madrid team, is obvious, to
judge by the posters, memorabilia, and photos displayed. Menu items here
evoke the flavors of Iberia and include at least two versions of paella; prawns
with garlic; Serrano ham with Manchego cheese and chorizo sausage; gazpacho;
and bacalhau (cod) alla Vizcaina. Our two favorite dishes are bone-free chicken
stuffed with ham and cheese in a white-wine sauce or (in the same sauce) bone-
free slices of tender, lean lamb.
Holbergsgate 19. & 22-11-63-15. Reservations recommended. Main courses 175NOK-205NOK ($25-$29).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Sat 3-11pm; Sun 3-10pm. Closed Dec 23-Jan 2. Tram: 11 or 19.

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