Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Vishnu & the King of Pop
Phanom Rung's most famous sculpture is the Narai Bandhomsindhu lintel , a carving
depicting a reclining Vishnu ('Phra Narai' in Thai) in the Hindu creation myth. Growing
from his navel is a lotus that branches into several blossoms, on one of which sits the cre-
ator god, Brahma. Vishnu is asleep on the milky sea of eternity, here represented by a
naga and alongside him are heads of Kala, the god of time and death. In 1972 it was
found on display at the Art Institute of Chicago and Thailand pressed for its return. Super-
stars Carabao helped the cause with their song 'Thaplang' (Lintel) featuring the line 'Take
back Michael Jackson, Give us Phra Narai'. Phra Narai finally came home in 1988.
Getting There & Away
Getting to Phanom Rung without your own vehicle seems complicated, but it's not.
Sŏrng·tăa·ou (20B, 30 minutes, every half-hour) from in front of the old market (nâh
đà·làht go/uw) on the east end of town and Chanthaburi-bound buses from the bus
station go to Ban Ta Pek where motorcycle taxi drivers charge 200B to Phanom
Rung, including waiting time. Chartering a sŏrng·tăa·ou at Ban Ta Pek is likely to
cost an hefty 800B.
Those coming from or heading to Pak Chong (104B to 140B, 2½ hours, hourly) or
Bangkok (Gitjagaan Tours; 275B, five hours, hourly) have the option of getting off at
Ban Tako, a well-marked turn-off about 14km east of Nang Rong and waiting for
one of the buses or sŏrng·tăa·ou from Nang Rong; or just taking a motorcycle taxi
(300B return) all the way to Phanom Rung.
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